CATERPILLAR BY DAY, BUTTERFLY BY NIGHT: CHANEL'S FW26 COLLECTION
words by DEBORAH DRENOFCI
The CHANEL FW26 collection, captured by Julien Martinez Leclerc in Gabrielle Chanel's Paris apartment, brings forward the beautiful and paradoxical nature of femininity. The collection draws inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel's metaphor of the caterpillar, which embodies daytime, functionality, and practicality, and the butterfly, which captures the movement and seductive transformation of nighttime. Matthieu Blazy is guided by effortless movement, elegance found in comfort and functionality, day and night as mediums of expression.
directed by STUART WINECOFF
The jacket grabs the most attention. It's reimagined with softer lines, wider shoulders, and iridescent fabrics that catch the light with every step. Fabric-wise, Blazy keeps things playful, mixing the classic CHANEL tweed with ribbed knits, sheer gauze, and metallic Lurex threads, even streaks of silicone show up here and there, almost like paint splashed across fabric. It looks structured but never stiff, always caught somewhere between grounded and ready to fly.
Blazy continues to play gracefully with the shape of the garments in unexpected ways, layering different eras on top of each other. The collection also explores menswear dating back to the 1920s up until today, creating a harmonious balance between masculinity and femininity. The structured blazer, paired with a silk and jersey skirt, takes on the role of the flowing silhouette, an intentional contrast between a traditionally rigid piece and fabrics chosen specifically for their drape and movement.
The collection stays soft and full of contrast, but somehow it all still hangs together. Nature shows up everywhere, florals bloom on dresses, but also on earrings and bags, and the colours drift between deep pinks and burgundies, pastels, and iridescent tones that almost feel painted on. Even the accessories keep the same playful mix of real and not-quite-real: coloured resin jewels, tinted mother-of-pearl, two-tone leather boots. It all comes together into something soft and playful, a fitting way to close out the caterpillar-to-butterfly story.
all images courtesy of CHANEL
