words by DEBORAH DRENOFCI
On the cold night of October 29th, around 150 people slept outside at the Zuidas in solidarity with those who have no option but to find shelter outside. Among them was Bas Timmer - the founder of Sheltersuit and the clothing brand One of XX - which drops a new collection on 1 November. For over a decade now, Timmer has been giving waterproof jackets that turn into sleeping bags to people experiencing homelessness. Sheltersuit came about when the father of two of his friends died of hypothermia, a painful inspiration that led to an important initiative helping many homeless people. This is what we call fashion with a cause. Timmer’s work - from Sheltersuit to One of XX - is deeply rooted in deadstock and upcycling, which makes everything not only woven with kindness but also sustainable. From growing up around the idea of giving fabric a second life to seeing his designs on the Chloé runway during Paris Fashion Week - Bas Timmer is a change maker, and that is worth celebrating.
photography by TONY DOČEKAL
Timmer grew up in what he calls a textile family; his mother ran a linen company that used only deadstock. After studying fashion design, he started his own brand of waterproof, multifunctional streetwear. During an internship in Copenhagen, he saw many homeless people on the streets. That was when he felt the first spark to design something for them. When he talked to his mother about it, she advised him that it might not be such a good idea. It wasn’t until he received the news about his friends’ father that he decided to give it a try and made his first Sheltersuit.
The deadstock sourcing started with a sleeping bag company his mother knew. “Slowly I got introduced to brands like Chloé,” he says. “I asked them if they had any leftover fabric, and they said they had some silks and wool. Then I made deadstock jackets for Chloé that they sold to their customers, and they gave us money to make more Sheltersuits. Brands like Balenciaga also donated fabric. So the sourcing comes from small companies, factories and big brands.”
“If you bring this impactful work into the sphere of fashion, you can connect with people who have more means, and this can increase the impact.” Gabriela Hearst, former creative director of Chloé, reached out to Timmer and asked him to design some deadstock backpacks. “Can I also make some deadstock Sheltersuit jackets for the runway?” he asked her. “She said of course, so I made some crazy jackets. Then she invited me to the show, and I was surprised, because not only did they show the Sheltersuits, they were the showstoppers. It reached so many people. It meant a lot for our non-profit work, and it ultimately inspired me to start my brand One of XX.”
In a setting where donations play such a big role, maintaining funding is a challenge. Timmer started One of XX to give people cool garments while still contributing to the cause. What makes One of XX unique is that each collection is limited, and the number of each piece is woven into the cuff of every sweater and T-shirt. For Timmer, designing with a limited amount of fabric is not a challenge. In fact, it is what he does best. “I learned to work with deadstock efficiently, so I approach it more as a systems challenge.” His aim is to make desirable clothing out of deadstock. “I try to turn the negative connotation around deadstock into something positive.”
“People are willing to make good things happen and care for each other. There is a harsh reality in the world, and everyone seems motivated to show the good side.”
In a world that moves fast, where industries are harsh and people are trying to make ends meet, seeing creatives use their skills and voice for a greater cause is heartwarming, refreshing and, without doubt, motivating. Because fashion should be accessible. It should be used as a force for change. Good change.
