words by PHOEBE GIBSON-DOUGALL

Back in September, Demna unveiled his first collection under Gucci and it felt like the fashion world stood still. La Famiglia had a major moment, debuting to rapturous applause and fanfare—Demna had made his mark. Generation Gucci is the next iteration of the Georgian auteurs vision for the House, a pre-fall collection that acts as an aesthetic omen, an anticipatory narrative of his upcoming February show.

images courtesy of GUCCI

Presented as a lookbook shot by Demna himself, the collection is a mirage, an imaginary show that never happened. Generation Gucci represents the designer’s ongoing research into the archival and visual codes across different eras of the brand’s history, envisioned through his own unique lens.

There’s a clear emphasis on tailoring and seamless construction, archival silk faille pencil skirts and minimal jeans with invisible pockets and concealed closures. Silk travel suits epitomise elegance whilst offering the comfortable ease of a favourite pair of pyjamas.

There’s a playful contrast between outerwear and underwear that underlies the collection’s party wardrobe. Textured coats offer lightness and tactility, cut from strips of shearling with silk, goat hair, and feathers, linked in intricate patterns atop sheer bases and linings. Going-out garments reflect the interiority of underwear, paired with silk blousons, draped miniskirts and minimal gowns in jersey and chiffon.

images courtesy of GUCCI

There are archival references galore, with 70s and 90s House signatures reenvisioned through leather and suede looks, equestrian-print silk sets, sliced Double G buckle belts, and racer jackets with a web stripe.

Footwear is referential yet sleek, seamless-heel stilettos, Valigeria-inspired ballerinas, and loafers adorned with spikes. The bags are decidedly collectible iterations of House classics, with the Lunetta Phone+, Jackie 196, Dionysus reimagined in exciting new finishes and silhouettes.

Generation Gucci is many things at once; it’s an homage to the past and it’s a vision of the future, but most of all it’s decidedly Demna’s own.