LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 1
GEORGE KEBURIA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of GEORGE KEBURIA
George Keburia's SS27 collection marked an important milestone for the Georgian designer, introducing menswear to the runway for the first time, expanding (rather than reinventing) the world he has spent years building. The exaggerated shoulders, sculptural tailoring and playful proportions that define the brand remained firmly intact, now translated across both womenswear and menswear with remarkable ease. Sharp jackets, cropped silhouettes and oversized pockets were balanced by tiny shorts, flowing fringe and decorative embellishment, creating a wardrobe that constantly shifted between eccentricity and romanticism.
British tailoring and country dressing lingered in the background, filtered through Keburia's own offbeat lens with tapestry-like prints, camouflage, studded details and oversized collars disrupting any sense of nostalgia. There was humour throughout — from rhinestone instrument motifs to unexpected accessories — but it never distracted from the strength of the tailoring. Instead, it reinforced the brand's ability to make even its most theatrical ideas feel coherent. Rather than feeling like a separate chapter, menswear slipped naturally into Keburia's existing universe, suggesting a confident next step for one of London's most distinctive voices.
MAXIMILIAN RAYNOR
review by BEX WHITLEY
all images courtesy of MAXIMILIAN RAYNOR
Maximilian Raynor’s show was a welcome reminder that summer isn’t quite over yet. The concept, A Village Green Rivalry, saw the designer continue his run of collaborations with iconic British brands, this time bringing together Belvoir Farm and Bentley Motors.
Set to the sound of a marching band, Raynor reimagined the classic village green through “The Gingers vs The Elders”, his take on the Montagues and Capulets, bringing old-school British tradition face-to-face with new-age edge.
The surprise appearance of the sun, along with the raffle and the bands' renditions of popular music, created a jestful atmosphere for attendee’s. This playfulness was reflected in the clothes, where quintessential British dressing was subverted through the likes of deconstructed gingham, reworked tea dresses and fractured fascinators. Pink ran throughout the collection, culminating in an eccentric floor-length gown covered in layers of shimmering fringe. Each look carried the theatrical drama and evident craftsmanship for which Raynor has become known. Together, they brought traditional and changing ideas of “Britishness” face-to-face, offering a world where old and new marry easily as one.
Raynor received the jury’s special mention at the 2025 ITS Contest, and for SS27 delivered exactly what the show notes promised: “a typical Raynor cocktail of hedonism, humour and heritage.”
HARRIS REED
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of HARRIS REED
Harris Reed proved that he doesn't need to turn everything up to eleven to make an impression. Stripping his signature aesthetic back to an almost entirely monochromatic palette, the designer delivered a collection that felt more refined without losing the sculptural silhouettes that have become his calling card. Ivory domination was interrupted only by touches of gold and the occasional flash of embellishment, fully allowing construction to take centre stage. Corsetry, exaggerated shoulders and sweeping trains remained, but they felt less like costume and more like couture, balancing fantasy with a newfound sense of wearability.
Reed's signature caged structures appeared throughout the collection, though this time as one element within a broader vocabulary rather than its defining feature. The focus instead shifted towards craftsmanship, from intricate embroidery and feather-like textures to impeccably tailored jackets and fluid evening gowns that showcased the designer's growing confidence with silhouette and proportion. It marked a thoughtful new chapter for the brand — one where shock value was no longer needed to make an impact.
KSENIA SCHNAIDER
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of KSENIA SCHNAIDER
Though sport may have provided the visual language, Ksenia Schnaider's SS27 collection was ultimately about everyday dressing. For his inaugural outing, brand’s new creative director Anton Schnaider transformed football shirts, racing uniforms and workwear into a wardrobe that felt playful, practical and refreshingly unpretentious. Utility remained at the heart of the collection, with oversized cargo jackets, denim sets and multi-pocket silhouettes sitting alongside lightweight jerseys, technical tops and easy separates designed for movement through the city rather than the pitch.
Floral bouquets carried by the models softened the collection's more functional edge, while the brand's ongoing collaboration with Lee Cooper reinforced its commitment to rethinking denim through patchwork, washed finishes and workwear-inspired construction. Made entirely in Kyiv, the collection continued Ksenia Schnaider's long-standing dedication to upcycling and thoughtful production without ever making sustainability its headline. It felt effortless, and most importantly it captured the ease of clothes designed to be worn every day while proving that practicality, humour and personality can comfortably exist within the same wardrobe.