LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 3
GEORDIE CAMPBELL
review by BEX WHITLEY
Geordie Campbell’s London Fashion Week debut, unsurprisingly, brought him to the east of the city. The SS27 collection, titled 15 Steps, explored the history of queer identity and self-expression, while Campbell’s love of George Michael ran throughout. Nods to the musicians expression of masculinity, sexuality and freedom fed as well as his legendary 1980s wardrobe seen in low boat-neck T-shirts, oversized military-inspired coats, exaggerated shoulder padding and micro athletic shorts. Other looks leaned into extravagant feathers and exposable sailor trousers, completing a collection where quite literally “if you know, you know?”.
Yet behind the playfulness lies a deep-rooted significance within Campbell’s process, both physically and metaphorically. A self proclaimed British Boy, his designs continue to embrace enduring luxury. Organic cottons, wool woven with silk and 100% cashmere knitwear evidence his commitment to British manufacturing, whilst brooches made from a Glasgow School of Art Alumni, London-based studio prints and bags from local leather were a display of the designers desire to support small, local business.
The inspiration from the show ran deeper than the clothes themselves, seeing Campbell research queer identity and cruising culture globally. The collection’s title traces back to Mansfield, Ohio, where two police officers descended the 15 steps of the Central Park public toilets and installed a camera behind a two-way mirror. Over the following three weeks, 79 men were arrested for “indecent acts”. Campbell also looked to queer image-making, drawing on the dreamlike world of Pink Narcissus, the sensuality of Derek Jarman’s Sebastiane and the bold illustrations of Tom of Finland. His choice to collaborate with Cruising Archaeology brought this history into the physical details of the collection, with an object recovered from a former cruising location reimagined as a brooch in multiple colourways.
The beauty of 15 Steps lies in Campbell’s reclaiming of a narrative once shaped by secrecy, metamorphosing to become something deliberately visible, worn with pride. Celebration, respect and reflection combined in the debut, as both a personal statement and a wider reflection on how queer identity has been communicated, protected and celebrated over time.
PAULINE DUJANCOURT
review by DEBORAH DRENOFCI
all images courtesy of PAULINE DUJANCOURT
Pauline Dujancourt's SS27 collection shows femininity and melancholy trapped in lace. It is layered in intricate floral motifs, with little hand-made blooms full of character. Skirts are pushed together into asymmetric shapes, and the shoulder puffs feel quiet rather than theatrical.
At first glance, it looks restrained. Muted, even. And yet that is exactly where Pauline's inspiration lives. The colours move from soft grey, light blue, pale orange and hints of pink to darker tones. The shift feels like dusk settling in. Then black arrives, hugged by deep blue and orange.
Dujancourt’s spark was an unexpected encounter with synesthesia. While reading the play ‘The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant’, she felt the urge to create a "tears library". Look closely and what seems hushed is actually doing the work. Through crochet and fringe, it speaks of sorrow and letting go. Dark and light sit side by side. What is tangled within is worn on the outside as uneven structure.
KNWLS
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of KNWLS
Revisiting the Bettina Rheims photographs that first inspired Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault over a decade ago, KNWLS looked back in order to move forward. Spring/Summer 2027 explored femininity through varying states of dress and undress; corsets dissolved into sheer jersey, slip dresses appeared to slide from the body, while lace, satin and translucent layers exposed just enough without ever feeling overt.
Alongside the label's signature body-conscious silhouettes came some of its strongest tailoring to date, from sculptural distressed leather outerwear to beautifully cut denim that reflected the duo's continued fascination with reconstruction. Delicate crushed leather roses, hand-worked bags and intricate layering revealed a level of craftsmanship that elevated every look. Nostalgia may have provided the starting point, but this collection refined the language it has spent the last decade building, bringing to 2027 and proving there is still plenty left to say about modern femininity.
RICHARD QUINN
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of RICHARD QUINN
Richard Quinn knows exactly who he is and makes absolutely no attempts to be anyone else. Presented beneath mirrored walls and chandeliers, the collection delivered a procession of grand eveningwear in Quinn's familiar language of corseted silhouettes, sweeping velvet gowns, embroidered florals and lavish embellishment. Black velvet remained the backbone of the collection, punctuated by powder blue drapery, crimson chiffon and delicate floral prints, while oversized silk roses, ostrich feathers and crystal brooches heightened the sense of old-school glamour.
Rather than reinventing his formula, Quinn continued refining it, producing impeccably crafted gowns designed for galas, weddings and the red carpet. The consistency has become part of the brand's appeal, but it also leaves little room for surprise. While the craftsmanship remains exceptional, the collection rarely ventured beyond territory Quinn has explored before, favouring audience’s reassurance over reinvention.
CHOPOVA LOWENA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of CHOPOVA LOWENA
Chopova Lowena turned a London bowling alley into a celebration of Slavic folklore for Spring/Summer 2027, drawing on mythical figures including Baba Yaga, Kikimora and Marzanna. The duo translated those stories into one of their most expansive collections yet, where signature pleated carabiner skirts met patchworked faux fur, laser-cut chiffon florals, graphic knits and layered jersey separates. Bowling references filtered through 1950s-inspired silhouettes, bomber jackets and playful accessories, while fairy-tale creatures emerged through exaggerated hair, theatrical makeup and delightfully eccentric casting.
Despite the abundance of ideas, the collection never felt overwhelming. Chopova and Lowena have developed a visual language so distinct that even the most unexpected combinations feel instinctive. There was humour, nostalgia and just enough chaos, but beneath it all sat a thoughtful exploration of heritage and storytelling. Chopova Lowena proves us season after season of their capability to not only create complex, immersive worlds but to build devoted communities around it.