MARTAN X MAGNUM’S SS27 COLLECTION WAS COLOUR CONTRAST AT ITS BEST
words by ANOUK WOUDT
Set within the regal walls of the Rijkmuseum, Amsterdam-based brand MARTAN presented its Spring/ Summer 2027 collection, Frozen In Time, in collaboration with Magnum. Defined by its bright colour contrasts and rope details—which have, at this point, become key characteristic features of the brand—the show stayed true to the MARTAN’s core mission of transforming discarded textiles into a vibrant silhouette-driven spectacle, while diversifying its look through a brand new Magnum-inspired colour palette.
all images courtesy of MAGNUM X MARTAN
photo credit: PRESSTIGIEUX
Voices echoed across the halls as we awaited the show’s commencement, chanting poetic sequences of words that faded in and out of sensical meaning. Then, the first look appeared swarmed with pale violet ropes, contrasted ever-so-perfectly with a touch of bright coral pink, peaking out of the apparition you might call a dress. Intriguing colour contrasts begin appearing in almost every look, becoming the central identity of this collection. Bright firetruck red, cobalt blue, pastel mint, faded pink and grey violets come to a clash in all kinds of irregular variations.
photo credit: PRESSTIGIEUX
Seemingly an homage to the newest Magnum flavours —‘La Pêche’ and ‘La Pistache’— there was also a heavy dose of vibrant pistachio-hued greens and peachy pinks thrown into the mix. Though it sounds unbecoming, the unpleasant nature of these colours actually found its strength together. Their contrastual energy pushes them to become even more visually protrusive, transforming otherwise simple constructions into eye-catching statements.
One of the show's best moments came with the unveiling of a grey-blue gown, ruched in all the right places and striped with an oblique piece of pale teal, as Solid Liquid Gas by Eartheater pulsed throughout the scene. The sonic backdrop perfectly enriched the clothing, soon fading into Robyn, props to the sound director.
photo credit: PRESSTIGIEUX
Besides an impressive study on how to contrast colour, the collection also starred a host of roped pieces, which are a recurring feature of the MARTAN design formula — established immediately through the opening look. Whether they gracefully dangled in streams or swivelled around bodies, their imposition added textures and shapes that made each piece feel truly one-of-one. Feathered constructions that almost mimicked frayed paper, also added interesting silhouettes to a few looks, standing out from their peers in the lineup.
Closing the show was none other than Romee Strijd, AKA former Victoria’s Secret model and the closest thing we have to the Netherlands’ sweetheart. Pale yellow strips of fabric attached to her body in unconventional ways, bridging gaps to create a floor-length gown. Recreating the iconic Kate Moss moment on the Vivienne Westwood SS94 runway, she whips out her Magnum at the end of the runway, taking a bite before handing it off to a stranger in the front row — ending the show off on a sweet note.
image credit: KIRSTEN VAN SANTEN