MILAN FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2026: DAY 2

FENDI
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of FENDI

After nearly three decades, Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to Fendi as the successor to Silvia Venturini Fendi, and early this afternoon she presented her vision for the House. Chiuri, famed for her strongly feminist designs, looked to none other than the Fendi sisters as her starting point. In the 1940s, when women were rarely able to hold leadership roles, Fendi was managed by sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda, who helped expand the family business — eventually propelling it forward when they hired Karl Lagerfeld as creative director.

The name of the collection, Less I, More Us — visible as a stencil print at the venue — carried multiple references. As she admitted backstage: “They (the Fendi sisters) were my mentors. They gave me my career. And I felt part of their teamwork. I would like people to remember all that they created at Fendi.” Beyond the sisters, the title also commented on gender, merging women’s and men’s wardrobes into one — a bold and commendable move for a House of this scale; and the environmental side of fashion surfaced as well, with Chiuri reminding us of our collective responsibility to extend garment’s life cycle far beyond a single season. Restyling is always an option, even if it means deconstructing a fur jacket and restitching it into a new shape.

Though the message was communal, the collection itself felt distinctly MGC — highly reminiscent of her years at Dior. In true Chiuri fashion, the palette was toned down to black, midnight blue, and soft shades of beige. “I’m tired of looking at colours on Instagram. Fashion is not entertainment. Fashion is a job,” she said. And while yes, fashion may be a job, it is not a crime for it to be fun. That dark brown fur coat with bright red polka dots from FW25 suddenly seems so far away. We can’t help but wonder: where is the indulgence in textures, materials and cheeky details that used to make a Fendi show the sensory experience? The clothes this season are meant to be “easy to wear” — and while they are extremely wearable and chic, Chiuri’s Fendi feels cold and uncomfortably dominating.

That being said, if there is one thing no one can take away from Chiuri, it is her attention to detail and relentless pursuit of perfection. Her haute couture training at Dior clearly pushed her to be more confident with experimentation and it is apparent. From leather lace to fur collars to the overall precision of the fit, the collection is meticulously constructed, balancing craftsmanship with commercial awareness. Those zebra-print shoes will sell out in no time.

MISSONI
review by ANOUK WOUDT

images courtesy of MISSONI

Glitters and patterns were definitely on the mood board for this season, creating a bold extension of the Missoni we know and love. Clashing stripes and plaid met shimmering trousers and bulbous coats, forming a subtly loud persona that invites the eye to linger.

With looks swaddled in burgeoning woolen scarves tangled amongst one another, a unique top-heavy silhouette emerges across the collection. Big-shouldered blazers and dropped waists only served to accentuate this, giving us full-on mob husband energy. In an attempt to break the visual stimulation, moments of monochrome paired with sharp heels breathed a much-needed air of elegance into the atmosphere. Through the layers of knits and belts overlapped in playful orchestration, each look exudes the elevated casualness that has become synonymous with the brand.

What really stood out to us, though, were those floppy newsboy-chic hats, adding an extra flourish that sets it apart from previous collections. Combined with the innate coziness of the collection, everything comes together to create a soft style punctuated by sudden, playful instincts– in quintessential Missoni fashion.

ONITSUKA TIGER
review by VERONICA TLAPANCO SZABÓ

all images courtesy of ONITSUKA TIGER

It all started in a dimly lit, white columned space, bathed in the kind of glow that emanates from a crinkled paper lamp fitted with a pre-LED light bulb. A few four wheeled robots survey the room, before the starting signal begins: “Take it slow. Deep breath in. And gently breathe out. Allow your body to settle. Let your shoulders soften.”

Everything lit up and an electro thud set the opening look loose. A matching grey skirt suit, a quintessential Japanese pop culture code, was paired with a slingback kitten heel version of the Mexico 66 sneakers, of course fashioned with the Onitsuka Tiger stripes. The tall grey socks were swiftly followed by tall fluffy fur encased boots bulging from the feet, next to a polished pink sheer panel dress. It felt almost as though our eyes couldn’t help but dart to the shoes, as we most commonly encounter Onitsuka’s on the streets in their bright yellow form, and Andrea Pompilio leaned into this reflex by admittedly making the shoe the boldest point of colour in the outfit, allowing us to gaze upon the rest of the look second. The pops of pink multiplied as shoelace-like tassels dangled from all heights, serving as a visual manifestation of “Let your shoulders soften."

Oh, and the robots were around the entire time, with their position eventually changing to camera duty, conveniently positioned at shoe level. The collection as a whole did “gently breathe”, in its pastel kawaii shades, and the airy outerwear. There was a copious amount of leg shown for fall winter but honestly, with the 17 degrees we have just experienced, it might just be a timely adjustment to the changing weather...