MILAN FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 5
ERMANNO SCREVINO
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images courtesy of ERMANNO SCREVINO
“Weathered by the wind, hardened by salt, and faded by the sun” - that’s how the Italian designer describes his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, calling it also, a voyage.
This season, Ermanno Screvino dressed his mermaids in sheer knits, sculptural corsetry and lace. Earth tones defined the silhouettes, as gold, hemp, shell, camel, and sand became colours. The serenity of the blue sea and the calm wind are celebrated with white and aquamarine, while the tougher side of nature is rendered through crocodile-embossed nappa leather, woven raffia trimmed with leather, and boots featuring a mix of suede and calfskin, alternated with embroidered lace. Touches of red emerge throughout the collection, contrasting with black, as well as uniform-inspired outerwear adorned with golden, copper metallic ribbons, and silk braids. Beneath the trench coats, the organza storm capes, and the tailcoats, a more gentle silhouette appears in a knitted jumpsuit, sculptural corset or a lace petticoat.
FERRAGAMO
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of FERRAGAMO
I have a confession to make — at first, I wasn't entirely convinced. I was a doubting Thomas towards Maximilian Davis' latest Ferragamo collection. Though impeccably made and unmistakably his, the opening felt almost too familiar. Beautiful tailoring, elegant proportions, muted colours — it all looked refined, yet not particularly groundbreaking.
But as the collection unfolded, Davis slowly pulled me into his world. The transparent rubber dresses and trench coats introduced subtle BDSM-like sensuality, while the glossy leather pieces added just enough edge without sacrificing the house's signature elegance. Look 31's matching blue rubber set with the integrated belt detail was a standout, followed by a series of beautifully made leather dresses and tailoring that felt increasingly confident.
Even the more utilitarian looks, with oversized pockets and belted waists, never felt heavy. There's a softness to Davis' work that makes even leather and suede feel effortless.
Rather than relying on one dramatic runway moment, Ferragamo has a tendency to build steadily towards something richer. By the time the shimmering evening looks closed the show, it was clear that this was just yet another hit collection for Davis, and I stand corrected.
DOLCE & GABBANA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of DOLCE & GABBANA
After the strength of Dolce & Gabbana's menswear earlier this year, this felt surprisingly underwhelming. The opening look was promising, introducing the house's familiar mix of lace, tailoring and Sicilian romance with enough restraint to draw you in. Particularly eye-catching (quite literally) was the corset-inspired lacing threaded through eyelets, adding subtle structure without feeling overly theatrical.
But as the collection progressed, it became increasingly difficult to understand where it was heading. Leopard print collided with florals, chunky tweeds with delicate lace, embellished denim with crochet and sheer dresses. While the idea of instinctively mixing family heirlooms from different decades is compelling, too often it translated into outfits that felt overloaded.
There were individual moments worth appreciating — the lace dresses, some beautifully crafted tailoring, and the occasional play on transparency — but they struggled to stand out amid the visual noise. Even the embellished denim, once a Dolce & Gabbana signature, felt more nostalgic than fresh.
The collection’s aim was to celebrate individuality, yet paradoxically it ended up feeling unfocused. Rather than creating the effortless charm of a woman dressing up without a care of being taken too seriously, it often resembled several ideas competing within the same look. After such a confident menswear outing, this womenswear collection feels like a surprisingly uneven follow-up.
MSGM
review by TIANA DE HASETH
Sometimes there's no need to redefine yourself — you just need to embrace who you are. That’s what Massimo Giorgetti did for the MSGM Spring 2027 collection. Instead of reimagining the brand, the collection embraced the signature looks of MSGM.
Known for his bright colors and bold prints, Giorgetti continued this aesthetic throughout the collection with vibrant orange, fuchsia pink, lemon tonic, coffee brown, pool blue, and more. The runway looked like an authentic and joyful lineup. From looks that went from masculine to feminine. The silhouettes mostly stayed straight, with equal proportions. The prints varied from shapes like stars to Giorgetti’s connection to the art world, embracing Mario Schifano’s floral artwork on blouses.
The looks were interestingly paired and mixed with different prints and colours, with layered pieces. This was a reminder that fashion isn't fixed and that there’s freedom to have fun with it.
BOTTEGA VENETA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of BOTTEGA VENETA
Louise Trotter and Bottega Veneta feel like a match made in heaven. Three collections in, she continues to push the house forward without losing sight of what makes it so desirable in the first place. This season truly unfolds like a journey between the beginning of spring and the peak of summer, opening with beautifully relaxed tailoring before gradually introducing colour, texture and craft in increasingly expressive ways.
The opening looks are among the strongest of the season. Oversized intrecciato-woven leather bags, sculptural scarves wrapped around the waist and impeccably cut tailoring immediately inform us on Trotter's vision: quiet, luxurious and completely effortless. Every accessory, every shoe and every proportion feels thought through. It is the kind of wardrobe you instantly want.
Then the collection shifts. Lilac, butter yellow and soft pink arrive almost unexpectedly, followed by floral leather pieces, sweeping fringe and extraordinary crochet that demonstrate the richness of Bottega Veneta's craftsmanship without ever seeming like a cocky showoff. Each chapter brings something new before returning to the restrained palette and familiar elegance that holds the entire collection together.
Watching the collection felt like a roller coaster ride in the best way possible. It constantly surprised, yet never lost its identity. One moment it was a beautifully understated leather trench, the next it was a dramatic fringed dress or a sculptural woven accessory, but everything belonged to the same world.
Louise Trotter continues to prove she's exactly the right person for Bottega Veneta. At a house so deeply rooted in Italian craftsmanship, it's no small feat that a British designer is delivering one of Milan's most accomplished collections season after season.