NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 1

COACH
review by HANNAH ATIRA

all images courtesy of COACH, photographed by LUCA ZANONI

Coach kicks off New York Fashion Week with a collection that embodies celebration, commemorating the house's hallmark moments for its 85th anniversary. Through the Spring/Summer ‘27 collection, Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers asks and answers the question of how to make memory and familiarity tactile, suggesting an understanding of celebration and an inside-out look toward Coach’s future. 

Inspired by both signature house codes and silhouettes Vevers has established during his tenure, the collection infused a lighter yet layered breath into Coach’s 85-year history. The collection opens softly with a palette of soft gray’s and browns against relaxed, tailored silhouettes before transitioning into earth-toned leathers styled with heavier layering. New iterations of the Turnlock Tote Bag, inspired by the 70’s original silhouette, in a soft yellow-orange leather captivate the eye in a sense of intention before eruption. An imminent shift in the collection’s atmosphere quietly ignited as Turnlock Totes and Tabby’s rubbed with metallic foil, confetti, glitter, and nail polish treatments shimmered down the runway. A soft sheen on tailoring and trench coats, metallic finishes throughout matching tops and skirts, and shining silks on bias-cut dresses further reiterated the reflective sense of celebration. 

A notable approach to looking at celebration as not just a recognition of history but a deep dive into the threads that weave the house’s history together, an exposed look at construction proved to be a pillar of the collection. The idea of inside-out took note in Coach’s tailoring this season, with blazers and trenches intentionally constructed with visible facings and seams, while decorative catch stitching appeared across silhouettes. 

Leather party hats, gift boxes, and bows made of the same leather as the house's signature handbags adorned models down the runway, further capping off the notion of celebration. Confetti-covered footwear in Vevers signature Hudson sneaker, Western boot, and handbags completed the notion of lasting celebration, mimicking pieces of the party that could last forever.

RALPH LAUREN
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of RALPH LAUREN

Nearly six decades into his career, Ralph Lauren continues to prove that personal style is less about following rules than knowing which ones to break to achieve the right effect. For Spring 2027, the American designer presented what he described as “an irreverent take on romance,” revisiting historical dress codes with a playful sense of freedom rather than following the references too rigidly.

The collection was built around contrasts. Tailoring remained central, yet rarely conventional. Voluminous white trousers met sharply cut waistcoats with sweeping tails, while boned cotton shirts offered a cleaner, more modern alternative to traditional corsetry. Elsewhere, Lauren’s long-standing dialogue between rugged and refined resurfaced through distressed denim paired with richly embroidered velvet, feather-trimmed workwear jackets, and brocade shirting finished with oversized ties — a subtle nod to the wide neckwear that launched his career almost sixty years ago.

A restrained palette of navy and white allowed the silhouettes and craftsmanship to remain the focal point of the collection. Artisanal techniques — including hand-painted finishes, burnout velvets, gesso-painted embroidery, and washed silk lamés — introduced texture without overwhelming the clothes. The eveningwear, particularly fluid wrap dresses and shimmering fringed separates, carried a sense of effortless glamour.

The collection seemed particularly convincing thanks to its refusal to romanticise the past. Lauren borrowed from history without becoming trapped by it, allowing tailoring, workwear, and occasion dressing to coexist naturally. As we watch everything become increasingly driven by algorithms and unified aesthetics, Lauren's rebellion against it served as a reminder that individuality remains anyone’s strongest signature.