NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 2

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
review by DONA TODOROVSKA

images courtesy of DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

Diane von Furstenberg returned to the New York runway with a question: how do you move an icon forward without losing what made it one in the first place? After nearly a decade away from the official schedule, the house returned under newly appointed Artistic Director Henry Zankov, whose debut is also something of a homecoming, given that his history with DVF dates back to 2014 when he first joined as a knitwear designer.

At The Standard, overlooking the High Line, the collection felt in motion from the first look. Against the greenery and glass of downtown Manhattan, Zankov released a wardrobe that seemed to move between ease and excess. Long, fluid silhouettes, loose tailoring and free flowing dresses met plunging necklines, exposed shoulders, dramatic trains and exaggerated hair. Soundscapes by Maison Labtonic provided a sensual, eclectic pulse as colour arrived unapologetically: acid yellow against purple, turquoise against brown, hot pink beside orange. Animal prints and graphic patterns collided without ever settling into one visual language.

The wrap was present, naturally, but less as a relic than a proposition. Zankov twisted, layered and recontextualised the gesture of wrapping and revealing, bringing DVF’s most recognisable code into his own language of colour, pattern and movement. Rather than simply reproducing DVF’s codes, he allows their two languages to collide; this tension is where the collection ultimately feels most alive.

There is also a contradiction at its centre: for all its insistence on effortlessness, the collection is anything but quiet. Its strongest moments are conspicuous, even excessive, while jersey, chiffon and fluid silhouettes keep the body moving with ease, evoking the vision of a woman free of expectations. 

The final look pushed that contradiction to its theatrical extreme: a halter neckline and a bodysuit-like base gave way to enormous printed panels and a train trailing behind the body. Its deep V, saturated print, and fluid movement felt distinctly DVF, but the proportions pushed beyond recognition. It felt less like an archival quotation than a proposition for what the archive might become—and perhaps, with it, a glimpse of what DVF might become next.

PROENZA SCHOULER
review by MAREK BARTEK

images courtesy of PROENZA SCHOULER

Rachel Scott’s second collection for Proenza Schouler feels noticeably more assured than her debut. Rather than redefining the New York label, she continues its legacy through a distinctly female perspective, one that prioritises how women actually dress over the usual ideas of occasion or formality.

That ease is evident throughout, and we’re here for it. Tailoring is softer, with elongated coats, sharp suiting and fluid jersey dresses that skim the body without feeling restrictive. Scott frequently shapes the waist through curved seams, subtle peplums and precise draping, creating silhouettes that flatter without appearing overworked. Even the more sculptural looks retain a natural sense of movement.

Elsewhere, graphic zebra jacquards, flashes of crimson and cobalt, and rich sequinned evening dresses inject energy into an otherwise toned down palette of black, ivory and earthy neutrals. The standout evening looks shimmer without overwhelming the wearer, with flat sandals reinforcing the collection's practical approach to elegance.

Scott's understands the women behind the clothes — it’s a strength only a few have. These are pieces designed to fit into real wardrobes, balancing out refinement with everyday wearability. There is still room for her vision to become more distinctive, but this sophomore outing suggests a designer growing increasingly confident in her voice. It feels thoughtful, modern and genuinely centred on women.

PUBLIC SCHOOL
review by HANNAH ATIRA

images courtesy of PUBLIC SCHOOL

Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow reinforce their NYC foundations with Public School’s SS27 collection. Entitled Living Proof, Osborne and Chow capture what it means to live, move, and be prepared for what only New York can throw your way, with a city-coded wardrobe that offers sophistication, ease of silhouette, and protection.

Honing in on an intuitively New York and precise colour palette of navy, black, and grey, Public School transcends their core idea of uniform outside of the classroom. Landing with an intentional mix of structured tailoring, ripstop nylon anoraks, leather trousers, and brushed denim, Osborne and Chow demonstrate an innate understanding of a city uniform. Elevated components of the collection- angular cuts, narrative layering, and complementary texture play- communicate a reverence for the world that informs their design in the context of daily life.

City-essential accessories, including cross-body leather bags adorned with sneakers tied to straps, further reinforce the idea of readiness. Culminating with a sense of effortlessness and refinement, Osborne and Show reinstate the importance of their perspective in the New York fashion narrative.

TORY BURCH
review by MAREK BARTEK

images courtesy of TORY BURCH

Season after season, Tory Burch refines a language that feels increasingly personal, practical with elegant without ever sacrificing either. Spring/Summer 2027 was another confident step in that direction.

"I was thinking about how people need to escape and heal something," Burch said backstage. "So I started with the concept of opulent femininity, always with the tension of the utilitarian and that contrast of sportswear."

Precision-cut tailoring, softly structured coat dresses and relaxed suits sat alongside fluid draped silhouettes that appeared deliberately unsettled, as though they had been rediscovered rather than freshly made. Sort-of-shrunken embellished cardigans, crystal-studded surfaces, hand-painted silk feathers and richly textured chenille introduced a sense of craftsmanship, while playful details — from oversized shark's teeth woven into necklaces to feather-like boas — kept the collection from becoming overly polished. Generous leather shoppers leaned into functionality, while microbead-covered kitten heels and softly gathered pumps provided moments of unexpected eccentricity.

Burch's recent collections may borrow from the past but they never end up trapped there, resulting in clothes that feel elevated, feminine and genuinely wearable. Few designers are navigating that balance with quite the same confidence, and this season proved once again that Tory Burch has found a rhythm that continues to surprise in the best possible way.