OUR TWO CENTS ON COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
editors ELIANA CASA and MAREK BARTEK
Our editor’s first time in Copenhagen? It had to be for fashion week — obviously. Sadly for us, Copenhagen summer had already left when we arrived, but luckily for you, the cold wind didn’t stop us from (un)covering this season’s standout moments, and the brands you’ll definitely want on your wishlist for next summer. Copenhagen continues to prove itself as a creative hub where fashion isn’t afraid to make a statement — even when it gets uncomfortable, like Marimekko’s powerful show, the inclusive casting of Rave Review or when fresh voices like Iamisigo (Zalando’s award winner) are finally given the spotlight. Now, far from us to give you any spoiler. Our fashion week recap will answer all your doubts and curiosities.
OPÉRASPORT
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images OPÉRASPORT via showstudio.com
OpéraSport opened Copenhagen Fashion Week with a SS26 collection inspired by the founders’ trip to Seoul, where the city’s serene traditions met its futuristic pulse. Soft silk shirts, sheer lace dresses, and 3D floral embellishments contrasted with sharp tailoring, cargo trousers, and vegan leather separates in deep navy and black. Hibiscus motifs bloomed across swimwear, embroidery, and sculptural appliqués, while subtle nods to traditional hanbok appeared in clean, structured lines. Highlights included fluid pastel slip dresses layered under boxy blazers, and lace-trimmed tops paired with wide-leg cargos for a mix of romance and utility. The show also debuted a playful Havaianas collaboration, including the first-ever 3D-printed flip flop. Romantic yet modern, the collection captured a harmonious balance of elegance, edge, and global spirit.
ANNA SOFIE MEDSEN
review by ELIANA CASA
all images ANNA SOFIE MEDSEN via instagram @annesofiemadsenstudio
“There they were… our ex-boyfriends,” Carrie Bradshaw might’ve said. Anne Sofie Madsen’s SS26 collection was fun, provocative, and exactly the kind of energy we needed to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week on the right note. Bags shaped like rats grabbed everyone's attention and made us wonder: is this the unexpected It-bag we’ve all been missing? Titled “Lick the Star” — a nod to Sofia Coppola’s cult short film — the collection blurred lines between narrative and fashion. Madsen invited Freja Wewer and William Becker of IssueIssue Magazine to reinterpret the collection and its presentation through their own lens. The collection is inspired by the story of a group of seventh-grade girls plotting to poison the boys at their school. And judging by the fierce attitude of models on the runway, the plan was already in motion. The title’s cryptic meaning — “kill the rats” (a reversal of “lick the star”) — came to life through subversive silhouettes and symbolic details.
Upcycled, deconstructed leather pieces added tension and depth, hinting at transformation and rebellion. Here, masculinity and femininity don’t clash — they coexist. Archetypes like the rebel, the romantic, the worker, and the executive collide, only to be reimagined through a lens of subculture, history, and personal evolution.
RAVE REVIEW
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images RAVE REVIEW provided by the brand
Rave Review’s SS26 collection, Blommornas Makt (“Power of Flowers”), transformed Copenhagen’s Nikolaj Kunsthal into a romantic yet defiant celebration of heritage and resistance. Drawing on Swedish counterculture and global flower festivals, the Stockholm brand reimagined vintage floral textiles as sculptural tailoring, sheer overlays, and boned silhouettes that created striking geometric volumes. Deadstock fabrics became everything from sharp pink blazers to deconstructed pantie-inspired skirts, merging couture craft with playful irreverence. A standout element was the ongoing PUMA collaboration, where customised H-Street sneakers and Speedcat Ballets injected Y2K energy into the line-up. Inclusive casting, including a model in a wheelchair, underscored the show’s commitment to representation. The result was a collection that balanced nostalgia with innovation, proving beauty can be both political and unapologetically feminine.
HAN KJØBENHAVN
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images HAN KJØBENHAVN provided by the brand
Han Kjøbenhavn’s SS26 collection delivered a bold, sculptural take on suburban nostalgia, blurring streetwear with a theatrical edge. Oversized silhouettes wrapped the body in exaggerated layers of puffed hips, cocoon-like hoods, and glossy textures that clung like armour. There was something intimate yet performative in the way everyday references like tracksuits, sports jerseys, corner-shop signage were reimagined with eerie precision. The palette, heavy on black with occasional shocks of chrome and faux feathers, heightened the sense of dystopian calm. With Another Day, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen continues to build a uniquely Nordic universe. It’s raw, reflective, and unafraid of emotional excess.
ROLF EKROTH
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images ROLF EKROTH via showstudio.com
Rolf Ekroth’s SS26 collection, 189 Days Later — Encore, unfolded deep in a forest, marrying utilitarian pragmatism with poetic craft. Built largely from post-consumer Finnish textiles via a collaboration with LSJH, the line transformed discarded denim, vintage fabrics, and technical nylons into sharply reworked staples: cloud-landscape jeans cut from six pairs of old denim, tubular garments evolved from rescue vests, and morning robes in protective, padded variations. Handwork was supreme, from 15,000 sewn pearls to flame motifs formed from hundreds of pins. Prints ranged from romantic tulips to bold “burning the old” graphics, underscoring the theme of renewal. The ongoing PUMA partnership brought customised sneakers into the mix, injecting a street-ready edge. Inclusive casting and layered collaborations with jewellery and beauty brands deepened the show’s narrative. The show was a confident iteration on Ekroth’s survivalist, ever-evolving design ethos.
IAMISIGO
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images IAMISIGO via instagram @iamisigo
IAMISIGO’s SS26 debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week, presented as the recipient of the Zalando Visionary Award, was less a runway show than a ceremony. Titled Dual Mandate, Bubu Ogisi’s collection reclaimed the colonial phrase and redefined it as a meditation on sacred duality of protection and openness, presence and prayer. Rooted in the brand’s Lagos, Nairobi, and Accra heritage, the line wove together Ugandan and Kenyan cotton, Nigerian raffia, and Tanzanian sisal, transformed through ancestral techniques such as hand-weaving, fibre knotting, chainmail forging, and glass-blowing. Sculptural raffia pieces seemed to vibrate with movement, while a barkcloth coat embedded with glass refracted the runway lights into shifting shadows and gleams. Accessories doubled as art objects: glass bags filled with water, woven bags that became hats. Ogisi’s diverse cast moved through the industrial space like participants in a rite, underscored by percussion layered with field recordings. More than a collection, Dual Mandate felt like a living archive — a reclamation of craft, memory, and spirit that spoke to the body as a vessel of ancestral technology.
HERSKIND
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images HERSKIND provided by the brand
Herskind’s SS26 collection unfolded as a confident stride into a more assertive femininity. The Copenhagen label remained true to its signature tension between tailored precision and fluid softness, yet this season’s energy leaned decisively into poised power with skirts taking centre stage. Transparent silk organza styles daringly redefined sensuality, while sweeping maxis offered romance in motion. Pops of citrine and blush punctuated the muted palette, framing separates such as corseted tops, crisp shirts and whisper-light harem trousers. Modular blazers reinforced the brand’s tailoring edge. The result was a collection celebrating women as multi-faceted—uncompromising, elegant and entirely in command of their own narrative.
HENRIK VIBSKOV
review by ELIANA CASA
all images HENRIK VIBSKOV via instagram @henrikvibskov
It’s no surprise that Danish designer Henrik Vibskov is a visionary whose work extends far beyond the realm of fashion. Once again, he hasn’t missed the opportunity to create a charged, emotional atmosphere for his SS26 show — which felt more like a performance art piece than a show. Repurposed elements from previous collections and installations in New York and Guangzhou came together in what felt like a tableau imprinted with feelings. Yellow structures and mysterious black eggs — crafted from isomalt, a material chosen for its ability to be reused — were scattered across the floor. A harmonica marked the beginning of the show, while caretakers slowly started their ritual. Some dusted the eggs, others cracked and gently replaced them, while a few leaned in, as if trying to listen to them. "Everything cracks eventually — I’ll be gentle" wasn’t just the title of the collection, but also a soft, poignant reminder — one that feels especially timely in today's world.
Inspired by Vibskov’s recent project “The Bank Is Dead” in New York, the SS26 collection explored the layered theme of protection: what it means, what’s truly worth safeguarding in these turbulent times, and how we protect the values we hold dear. Emerging from the central concept of “Prot-egg-tion,” the garments brought the narrative to life. The silhouettes were inspired by everyday items used to shield and preserve — from suit covers and instrument cases to protective furniture wraps. Coats resembled garment bags, and voluminous dresses echoed the curves of a double bass case. Through the use of natural and musical motifs — including instrument-case impressions on denim and intricate jacquards — Vibskov reconnected us with the importance of care, memory, and resilience.
GESTUZ
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images GESTUZ via instagram @gestuz
Gestuz’s SS26 show channelled the golden age of motor sport, but with its sight firmly on the present. Under the title The Human Race, the Copenhagen label fused rugged utility with cinematic romance, pairing supple leather jackets and tailored co-ords in oil-slick black with pastel-hued draped dresses and scarf details worthy of Grace Kelly. Pops of vivid red and deep blue evoked vintage Formula One, and new jewellery collaborations and snake-print leather boots added a distinctive edge. Balancing masculine grit with feminine ease, the collection invited us to rethink speed itself, all that while celebrating purpose, and the art of moving with intent. In slowing the pace, Gestuz highlighted the beauty found in detail and craftsmanship. It was a collection as much about reflection as it was about forward momentum.
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
review by ELIANA CASA
all images BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN provided by the brand
Baum und Pferdgarten’s SS26 collection had to take place in a stable — especially with a title like “Grandstand”, which set the tone well before the first look appeared. The show embraced the world of horse racing, reimagining the Derby uniform through countless reinterpretations. Creative directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave explained: “We were drawn to the sharp colour-blocking and purpose-driven silhouettes of jockeys — so bold, so functional, so instantly recognisable.” Nylon took center stage in vivid, high-impact color combinations. Feminine silhouettes clashed beautifully with masculine volumes and utilitarian details. Chunky boots met delicate heels adorned with sculpted floral shapes. Traditional elements like horse rosettes and vintage lace paid tribute to heritage, while leopard prints and faux leather injected a modern, playful edge. Naturally, Baum und Pferdgarten’s signature beers were served — and so were the looks.
SUNFLOWER
review by ELIANA CASA
all images SUNFLOWER via instagram @_hello_sunflower
Sunflower took us into a garage to present their 15th collection — simply titled “15”. At the center of the venue stood what once was a racing car, as if waiting for the models to return from or depart on a journey. Viewers (us) were standing along the sides, and suddenly it felt like we were silent passengers. As the models emerged, it felt as though they were pulling their looks straight from a suitcase — improvised, raw, and ready to move. Some climbed onto the car, others paused with a confrontational glance. A washed, sun-faded denim two-piece evoked the uniform of someone drifting through endless days. A three-piece grey suit, creased and worn beneath a windblown tobacco trench, hinted at a business man leaving his financial job once and for all. A sharply tailored black overcoat, paired with jeans and cinched with a silver concho belt, made us feel like we were in a Western movie. The casting — just as punk as the soundtrack — gave the show a cinematic edge. Each model felt like a character from a different genre film, thrown together in a garage somewhere between rebellion and reinvention.
MARIMEKKO
review by MAREK BARTEK
left and middle images MARIMEKKO via jtdapperfashionweek.com
right image: photo by MATT JELONEK via Getty Images
Marimekko’s SS26 show, Art of Pattern, brought a burst of candy-hued optimism to Copenhagen’s harbour, swapping its usual floral dominance for playful, oversized stripes. Staged against the raw backdrop of a former industrial site, the collection celebrated the Finnish house’s printmaking heritage, reworking archive icons like Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi’s Piccolo stripe and Maija Isola’s Unikko florals into crisp cotton shirts, billowing dresses, and tailored co-ords. Pastels met saturated brights, while preppy polos and diagonal Basso stripes injected youthful energy. Of course, it wouldn’t be a fashion week without a bit of a shock factor. After all, fashion has been, is, and always will be political. Mid-show, model and musician Jura stepped forward with a Palestinian flag reading “ACT NOW AGAINST GENOCIDE.” A moment of activism that she later framed as a call for solidarity, urging audiences to remember that Palestine’s future is inseparable from our own.
CECELIE BAHNSEN
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images CECELIE BAHNSEN provided by the brand
Cecilie Bahnsen marked her 10-year anniversary with a celebratory Copenhagen homecoming, staging an outdoor show that merged industrial concrete with her signature cloud-like volumes. Mining her archive, she spliced together past silhouettes into new hybrids — slim shift dresses revealing frothy explosions of ruffles at the back, chubby tiered skirts, and puffy hooded jackets punctuating the romance. Rendered almost entirely in white, the line-up was jolted by bursts of silver sequins and foiling, mirrored by fireworks overhead. The result was both nostalgic and forward-looking, a testament to Bahnsen’s enduring vision: couture-level craft with an airy, distinctly Danish ease.
ROTATE
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images ROTATE via instagram @rotatebirgerchristensen
Rotate’s SS26 show swapped its signature ‘80s glamour for a breezier, boho-chic spirit, channeling the free-flowing romance of the 1970s. Scalloped chiffon blouses, dreamy pastel dresses dotted with 3D poplin daisies, and ultra-flattering flare-meets-bootcut jeans floated through a sun-lit space draped in sheer curtains. Accessories took centre stage with flip flop heels (already an it-shoe of the summer) alongside slingbacks and strappy sandals adorned with Rotate’s signature rosette. Teased collaborations with Chimi eyewear and Love Stories lingerie hinted at a full top-to-toe Rotate wardrobe. Soft yet unabashedly sexy, the collection married playful DNA with relaxed femininity, the kind of joyful, easy elegance made for women who want to feel as good as they look.