words by ELIANA CASA
The news of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s departure from Balenciaga, after less than two years, finally put an end to months of whispers and rumours surrounding his future at the House — and did so with a deafening silence. While some social media tabloids seemed relieved by the decision, in a whirlwind of hateful comments, many others were left wondering, in disbelief, about the whys and hows.
images courtesy of BALENCIAGA
Following the early departure of Dario Vitale from Versace after just eight months, the heartfelt goodbye of Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, another House within the Kering family, and the very recent closure of Coperni, the luxury fashion climate seems a bit restless — perhaps in the chase and hope of a new (same old) business strategy?
A strong sense of nostalgia was felt during Pierpaolo’s latest SS27 fashion show, amplified by the presence of Ms. Lauryn Hill in the audience and the show's soundtrack, which, in retrospect, might almost have hinted at an impending withdrawal. If the collection reminded us of anything, it was of the great couturier Pierpaolo is: a designer capable of studying the archives of a fashion house like Balenciaga in depth, with the same dedication Alessandro Michele is bringing to Valentino, only to reinvent them in endless variations and explosions of colour, texture and, finally, just pure joy. And yet, just as our excitement was beginning to build, driven by the desire of wanting more, the ties were suddenly cut short.
Whether you loved it or hated it, his debut collection for the House was a masterful execution of this very thought process. The sack dress, the cocoon and balloon silhouettes, the peacock cut... Pierpaolo drew from these signatures like a true expert, weaving them into a new narrative language rooted in the very foundations of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s vision, while introducing new elements along the way, such as the Bolero bag. After all, he said it himself: “I didn’t want to go back to the roots. I wanted to study the archives and find my own way.” And that is precisely what unfolded once again with his debut Haute Couture collection in July 2026. Romance in its fullest expression, perhaps too far from what the brand’s clientele had grown accustomed to under Demna’s satirical take on street style. If Demna deconstructed (in a genius way, we must add), Pierpaolo carefully rebuilt his own universe within Cristóbal’s, almost from the ground up, without breaking ties with the past.
After all, that first debut show back to October 2025, was staged at Kering’s headquarters, inside the historic Laennec building, and drew upon the rich archives of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga — the very same location where Demna had presented his ten-year retrospective at the helm of the House just a year earlier.
A sense of confusion and, above all, disappointment lingers when designers are given so little time to build upon a legacy and prove that they are capable of achieving far more than they are ever given the opportunity to. How can even creativity survive the rigid laws of marketing?
The official announcement, shared by Kering’s CEO and President, Gianfranco Gianangeli, stated: “We are deeply grateful for Pierpaolo’s contribution to Balenciaga. Through his vision, he reaffirmed the couture origins of the House, bringing his considered approach to craftsmanship, construction and creativity.” Remarking on the designer’s profound understanding of artistry, Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering, added: “Pierpaolo is an exceptional couturier and creative talent for whom we have the greatest respect.” Piccioli’s own personal note, however, was notably missing from the official announcement. It was shared only through his Instagram account, alongside a series of behind-the-scenes pics from his couture journey at the House: “Couture is my way of understanding this profession: not merely a look, but a gesture; not just a silhouette, but a knowing hand, a perspective and a point of view from which to gaze upon imagined landscapes. We believed in a dream. It was a beautiful dream, to be shared and believed in, a landscape imagined from that point of view. And yet, life is a journey and each chapter exists to make way for the next.”
A new chapter has just started indeed, with this morning’s announcement of Martine Rose as the House’s next Creative Director. We must remain hopeful. Not only because it is much needed to witness a powerful woman at the helm of such a powerful brand, but especially because, as Pierpaolo concluded in his message, “...despite everything, keep shining. Always. Love, Pp.”
