IN CONVERSATION WITH ANDRÉ STOLLE
interview NATALIE GAL
Chef André Stolle leads Lisbeth in Hamburg, where his work is dedicated to preserving German culinary traditions while adapting them to contemporary tastes and new gastronomic developments. Over the years, his restaurant has grown into one of the finest in Europe, and we had the chance to visit it ourselves. On this occasion, we spoke with him about German cuisine and his perspective on it, the story behind Lisbeth, and his vision for the future.
How do you define German cuisine in the broader European context? Which aspects do you particularly love about it?
In my opinion, German cuisine is highly underrated. Just like other national cuisines, it is very diverse and varies greatly from region to region. To reduce it only to sauerkraut and roast pork is therefore not correct. But in fact, German cuisine is also not the loudest and not particularly present in international media. So, it still has some room to grow.
You are known for focusing on North German cuisine. How does it differ from the culinary traditions of the South or other regions of the country?
Unlike southern German cuisine, northern German cuisine unfortunately has fewer preserved recipes and, due to climatic conditions, also a different selection of products. Here, the emphasis is more on rustic products, pickled and salted foods. In fact, the “poor people’s” approach is more prevalent here. Dishes such as Grützwurst, Schwarz-Sauer, and mashed rutabagas originate more from simple cooking. Functionality was more important than the visual appearance of these dishes.
Where does the name "Lisbeth" for your restaurant come from?
The name Lisbeth was my grandmother’s given name. Since she played a decisive role in my life, I dedicated my restaurant to her. She introduced me to food at a young age and ultimately also to cooking.
Your restaurant is located in the historic heart of Hamburg, in Deichstraße. Does German history play an important role in your work? If so, how do you approach this heritage in your cuisine?
Hamburg and North German cuisine were deliberately chosen because of our location. We want to preserve “North German Tradition,” the North German recipes and the history behind them, and make sure they are not lost.
What is your next goal in the kitchen? Do you see any trends, techniques, or ingredients that you find interesting?
My next goal is to further establish the restaurant “The Lisbeth” in Hamburg’s gastronomy scene, to refine our product further, and to lead it into the future. There is also an incredible amount in the culinary world that still interests me and that I still want to learn.
