IN CONVERSATION WITH THOMAS DEMUTH
Interview by Samo Šajn
Photography by Chantal Arnts
Thomas Demuth is the chef behind Tannay, a French restaurant on Amsterdam’s Realeneiland. Originally from the village of Tannay in Burgundy, he trained at top kitchens like George V in Paris and later moved to Amsterdam to work with Alain Caron. Blending classic French flavours with a modern touch, Thomas now brings his heritage and creativity to the heart of the city.
Tannay is named after your hometown in Burgundy. How does growing up there influence the way you cook today?
I bring a piece of Tannay, Bourgundy, but would even say, a piece of my experience. I like to start a dish with a product in season, and from there I'm going deep into my memories from my childhood, most of the time, and giving it a classiness, elegance, but with a touch of modernity.
You’ve worked at top places like George V in Paris and with Alain Caron in Amsterdam. What did you learn from those experiences?
My journey began 15 years ago now. I would say every experience is good to take in. And in every experience, I saw myself growing up, but there are a few chefs who really give me an impact, as a chef but also as a human being. I think about Denis Guenot, Jean Marie Lamoureux, Patrick Betron, and of course, one of my best friends, Alain Caron.
At Tannay, you mix classic French cooking with a modern twist. How do you find the right balance between tradition and something new?
The Balance between those two styles is very tight. I believe you need an extremely strong base, which is the most important, then a strong team that can bring energy and ideas on the table. I have two sous chefs with me, Francois and Matteo, they have a real impact on the way we cook at Tannay.
Your menu focuses on deep flavors and rich sauces. How do you come up with new dishes for the five-course menu?
My focus is always based on the sauce, I have a passion for it, I'm tasting all day long, sauce, condiment. To be honest is very easy for us to change the menu that often because we only work with seasonal products. We make sure to source the best at the right time, it’s all about timing! Then I even ask my mom sometimes to remind me what she used to cook for us at that time of the year, and then from that, an idea pops up.
You moved to Amsterdam for love and decided to stay. How has that personal story influenced your work and the feeling of the restaurant?
I did not move to Amsterdam for love at all, the story is that I knew Alain for years already, because of a long family story pretty much based on the vineyard. So I came to work with Alain at Cafe Caron, to bring my French knowledge, and to learn how to speak English. I did find the love later on, and this make me stay in Amsterdam.
You helped turn the Gouden Reael into what is now Tannay. What was that process like, and what did you want to change or keep?
It was a long process, but I can’t tell you all my secrets. We wanted, the Caron family and I, to keep this beautiful building intact, but to give it this Burgundy style, like a warm and welcoming house. Where I could tell my story to the world.
As a young chef running your own place, what advice would you give to others who want to follow in your footsteps?
First of all, I have partners at Tannay who are family. My advice will be, work harder than anyone else, be hungry, follow your own rules, and just do it, it’s better to try and fail than to stay on the bench. The train is passing one time, or you step in or you don’t. I step in.
