IN CONVERSATION WITH ZIGGY CHEN
interview by ELIANA CASA
For his SS26 menswear show, Ziggy Chen brought us into what looked like an abandoned industrial building—raw, and charged with an almost spiritual energy. It all made sense, when we found out that PRITRIKE—the title of the collection—is a fusion of the words “primitive” and “strike.” After the show, we went backstage and had the pleasure of sitting down with the designer behind the eponymous label, Ziggy Chen.
Congratulations on your SS26 collection! What was the central inspiration behind it? What does Pritrike mean?
Thank you! This season is both an attempt to face the future and a farewell to the past - it serves as a personal reminder. “Primitive” represents returning to the very beginning of making clothes, embracing the original mindset, while “strike” stands for setting out again with renewed vigour. As for the inspiration, it stemmed from a simple vision: people weaving through urban streets, each displaying different styles and states. Everyone carries something unique. More specifically, it was the hurried passersby on the streets in the 1990s that had a strong influence on this collection.
Your designs often explore dualities—tradition vs. modernity, East vs. West. How does that tension manifest in SS26?
I think in this collection, I actually chose to soften that sense of duality and didn’t deliberately dwell on such details. If anything, it’s simply a continuation of my usual working habits. I wanted to break from my previous patterns and focus more on inner emotions.
Can you describe a standout piece from the collection and the story behind it?
It’s hard to say which piece is the most representative, but personally I favour Look 14. It features knit vests and trousers connected and secured by webbing and cords, creating an uncertain silhouette that shifts as the wearer moves. This idea came about unexpectedly during the prototype stage.
What materials or techniques did you experiment with this season that are new for you?
The biggest change this season was in the colour palette, shifting from my habitual warm tones to more neutral, cooler hues. In terms of fabrics, I followed my usual approach—making slight adjustments in yarn counts, weaving, and dyeing, still favouring natural fibres. The most significant technical change was in the jackets: we minimised the use of fusible interlinings and opted for 100% linen instead, aiming to improve comfort and softness.
How do you balance conceptual storytelling with wearability in your collections?
As garments are ultimately products, this balance is especially crucial. Wearability is always our primary concern, serving the wearer first. Conceptual ideas are better conveyed through colour development, material choices, and detailed craftsmanship.
Your shows have a strong visual and atmospheric component. What role does presentation play in your creative vision?
I appreciate an imperfect sense of beauty. When selecting show venues, I pay attention to whether the space itself offers a certain strength and resonance with the collection. However, when designing the entire collection, I don’t really consider how it will be presented on the runway. The two are not directly connected.
Shangai plays a key role in your designs. How did it influence your creative process during the years? And what changed from the beginning?
Shanghai and the broader Jiangnan culture are irreplaceable for me. Their influence goes far beyond what the eye can see. I hope this SS26 collection brings the freshness of bamboo shoots and fava beans heralding spring, my favourites. In the beginning, I was more focused on traditional aesthetics and direct expression. Now, I prefer to include more subtle and internal references. Looking ahead, I want to pay more attention to the present and discover interesting things in everyday life.
What do you hope audiences take away from the SS26 show—both emotionally and sartorially?
I hope that everyone left the show in good spirits.
If you could give advice to anyone starting now, which one would it be?
Perseverance and reflection.
What’s next for Ziggy Chen?
There are no new plans at the moment. We’re continuing step by step to refine our product lines and improve our supply chain.