A GLANCE BACKSTAGE AT THE WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK SHOW BY SZYMON STEPNIAK

Walter van Beirendonck presented deeply emotional piece of work this season, reflecting on the reality we live in. As Beirendonck himself shared: “I want to stay the stay-eyed, wide-eyed boy I always was. Believe in the best of humans, full of hope for the world. But it’s becoming harder and harder.”

The collection draws inspiration from various sources: artists’ workwear, historical dresses, Anna Piaggi, the Italian fashion writer and master of clash herself, and his own childhood memories. In a true Beirendonck’s fashion, the collection is loud and experimental. Knee-length trench coats and utility jackets come in “happy” camouflage full of bright greens and red, with shaggy cuffs and collar. The abundance of patterns went from more traditional plaid, various floral motifs, contrasting stripes, and tattoo-style print all the way to Beirendonck’s childhood photographs. Beyond the clash-chic, the collection offered a great amount of single breasted blazer, tailored trousers and shorts, as well as funky tank tops. Buttons were large and covered in matching textile. As the show progressed we saw the shift to a complete deconstruction with a seeming effort to “build things back” using the “incorrect” pieces.

Accessories were eye-catching. Elaborate necklaces, slightly blown up bowler hats, scarves and earrings resembling objects like combs or shoehorns. Shoes were covered in dull spikes created edgy yet soft feel.