DISCOVER THE BACKSTAGE OF STÉPHANE ROLLAND BY CORALIE WATERLOT

words by NIA TOPALOVA

Stéphane Rolland’s muse this season is Ida Rubinstein - “a muse in search of an Iberian dream-sensual and spectral.”  Rolland’s Autumn-Winter 2025 Couture collection took place at the historic Théatre des Champs-Élysées, reflecting on the creative encounter between composer Maurice Ravel’s mechanical and abstract rhythm, and dancer Ida Rubinstein’s dreamlike nature. From this duality emerged a wardrobe where Spain became both mechanical and mystical, with precisely structured volumes breathing with a lightweight sense of tranquility.

A live performance by the Divertimento orchestra, directed by Zahia Ziouani, accompanied the architectural silhouettes, in shades of black, white, ivory, gold, and passionate red. The long gowns in satin, gazar and chiffon were adorned in coral and crystal embroidery, while samurai-inspired capes were covered in black and translucent sequins. 

“The collection oscillates between tension and ornament, between restraint and opulence, between the spirit of ballet and the machine. Like Rubinstein and Ravel, it is a meeting of opposites-a Haute Couture symphony where modern rigor, almost Japanese in style, is overtaken by Spanish fantasy. The bride appears, a white icon crowned with a dome embroidered in gold. The final note of this symphony.” – Stéphane Rolland.