EVERYTHING YOU MISSED THIS WEEK
words ELIANA CASA
editor MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
Our dear readers, we know you are multitasking professionals, likely reading this week’s recap from the comfort of your sunbeds. Honestly, we couldn’t think of a better way to process everything that has happened in the past days. For the most distracted, Haute Couture made its return to Paris just one week after Ready-to-Wear, keeping all the fashion addicts glued to the brands' live IGs. Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela was undoubtedly one of the hottest highlights of the season, but we had to take a moment to welcome Michael Rider at Celine and officially bid farewell to Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga.
And then… well good habits die hard. You’ll have to keep scrolling to find out the rest!
MICHAEL RIDER MAKES HIS CELINE DEBUT
How do you pay homage to one of the most talented designers of our generation, Hedi Slimane, while preserving the essence of a historic brand like Celine? The answer is Michael Rider. We’ve been waiting months for the American designer’s debut—and last week, it finally arrived, right at the brand’s atelier, just minutes from the Tuileries Gardens. For those expecting a minimalist, monochrome collection, Rider responded with a vibrant palette and voluminous silhouettes. Nods to one of his mentors, Phoebe Philo (oversized shoulder cuts), and Slimane’s skinny jeans (both for men and women) were obviously there. The most attentive have also spotted clear references to his time at Ralph Lauren.
Is the Celine man and woman the modern, updated take on American preppy? Yes, and in the designer's own words: “It felt modern, it felt ethical, it felt strong.”
MAISON MARGIELA WELCOMES GLENN MARTENS WITH FIRST HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
Speaking of paying homage—Glenn Martens faced one of the season’s most daunting challenges: stepping into the shoes of Martin Margiela and John Galliano. Let’s be honest—it was not an easy task. And yet, the result was a resounding “well done” from the entire industry. For his Haute Couture Fall 2025 debut, Martens chose to take a step back and return to common ground: Belgium, and Margiela’s iconic SS89 debut collection. Reimagined masks served as a quiet reminder that to begin again, one must be armed with both sensitivity and deep knowledge. Gothic motifs, rooted in Martens’ homeland, shaped the collection’s sculptural silhouettes. We’re still in awe of how models strode down the runway with their faces fully covered, and frankly, we’re more than fine with not knowing how. Glenn gave us exactly what Margiela stands for: a world of fantasy where fashion becomes a tool for storytelling, and fabric is the language that brings it all to life.
NEW SCHIAPARELLI EXHIBITION SET TO OPEN IN 2026
Fashion and art lovers, listen up! If you saw the name and assumed we’d be talking about the Haute Couture show—think again. We’ve dedicated a full review to that elsewhere. ‘Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art’, the first-ever exhibition dedicated to the legendary designer, opens next March at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Featuring over 200 pieces—including garments, accessories, jewellery, and archival materials—the exhibition will bring Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy to life in every corner. Iconic designs like the “Skeleton” and “Tears” dresses, created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí, will be showcased alongside works by Picasso, Jean Cocteau, and Man Ray. The show also delves into Schiaparelli’s influence on film, theatre, and her groundbreaking artistic collaborations.
JW ANDERSON UNVEILS RESORT 2026 COLLECTION
Proving once again that he’s the ultimate workaholic, Jonathan Anderson isn’t taking a break—not after his highly anticipated Dior debut just weeks ago, not even in the middle of summer, and certainly not despite the ongoing rumors about him leaving his own brand. With a new logo and store concept designed by Sánchez Benton Architects, the JW Anderson Resort 2026 collection offered a fresh take on the classics. Anderson surrounded himself with enduring materials and objects meant to last: Japanese denim, English silk damask, Scottish knitwear, and Irish linen all made their way into the collection. The casting, as always, was unexpected. Long-time friends and collaborators of the designer modeled the looks, like filmmaker Luca Guadagnino who appeared to be in front of the camera this time, rather than behind it.
DEMNA BIDS FAREWELL TO BALENCIAGA WITH FINAL HAUTE COUTURE SHOW
There are moments in fashion that feel timeless, and this was undoubtedly one of them. Demna’s final collection at Balenciaga felt both like a tribute and a culmination, or as the designer himself put it: “The perfect way for me to finish my decade at Balenciaga.” Photographed across Paris, where his fashion journey first took shape, the designer started from ‘Le Bourgeousie’, combining radical craftsmanship with pared-back minimalism. Old Hollywood glamour met Cristóbal Balenciaga’s enduring legacy, in corseted tailoring and seamless lace gowns to trompe-l'œil corduroy and handcrafted couture sneakers. And in the end, the message was clear: the show closed with a soundtrack of voices, those of his team, paying homage to the people who brought his vision to life.
DIOR LADY ART CELEBRATES 10TH ANNIVERSARY
The iconic Dior Lady has just turned 10 years old and to celebrate this moment, the Dior Lady Art Project keeps on opening new conversations on creativity and craftsmanship. First launched by Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2016, the project invites contemporary artists from around the world to transform the timeless silhouette into bold, one-of-a-kind works of art. This year’s lineup features 11 artists from countries including Peru, Korea, Vietnam, and the U.S., each infusing the bag with their own cultural and artistic language—ranging from traditional beading and calligraphy to 3D printing and translucent materials. The result is a striking celebration of Dior’s heritage, creative freedom, and the enduring power of artistic collaboration.
MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ JOINS CHANTECLER IN CAPRI
There’s always a first time — or two, in Marina Abramović’s case. For the very first time, the legendary artist joined forces on a jewellery campaign that took her to the stunning island of Capri. Merging Abramović’s visionary artistry with Chantecler’s masterful craftsmanship and the island’s elemental energy, art director Andrea Lazzari crafted a collection that truly captures this unique fusion. Standout pieces like a striking titanium and enamel collar echo the sea’s colors and the raw beauty of Capri’s landscape, embodying the spirit of both artist and island.
