PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER DAY 1

editors ELIANA CASA, MAREK BARTEK and MARIE-PAULINE CESARI

THOM BROWNE
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

The past twelve months have been busy in the House of Thom Browne! Between dressing Doechii for her historical Grammy Win and making a lasting impression with their iconic Olympics Haute Couture collection, the brand has been on everybody’s lips for the last 365 days. So for this season, Thom Browne came back in full swing merging their iconic staples with unexpected innovations that left us very hopeful for the future of the brand. 

2025 marks the tenth birthday of Hector the label’s adored dachshund mascot. To celebrate, we saw him adorning knitwear and turning into cheeky leather handbags. This year brought an innovative twist for the brand, that introduced denim pieces for the first time in their collection, taking a more relaxed direction than their traditional tailored aesthetic. Bright and soft colours alike came to grace the garments, with a sweater composed of soft pink and green, or a polo shirt in flashy yellow. The legendary stripes, so essential to the brand’s visual language, dominated the collection, appearing on reworked blazers and light short-sleeved shirts alike. And it would not be Thom Browne without the soft anthracite that helped elevate the brand to its current icon status. Zip-ups, mini skirts, wool vests and striped jackets, the soft grey hue is everywhere, proving that Thom Browne knows how to go on creative adventures while keeping its foundations strong.

SAINT LAURENT
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images SAINT LAURENT provided by the brand

For the first night of the Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent took us to Bourse de Commerce to explore their Mens’ Summer 2026 collection. No set design needed. Models walked around the art installation ‘clinamen’ by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot. 

Though still grounded in the Parisian flair, the collection seemed softer, more feminine, paying tribute to queer artists, who were often not appreciated during their time, and to Yves Saint Laurent himself. Especially during the year 1974, when he struggled with burnout, addiction and handling the fame. 

The collection explored this subtle sensuality, almost as when one dresses as much to reveal themselves as to hide. The opening look composed of the oversized long sleeve shirt in brick orange and mini tailored shorts was a direct reference to a 1950s photograph of Yves Saint Laurent wearing the same fit. This silhouette altered between other iconic Saint Laurent ones, like full suit or trench-shirt-trouser combo, but we also saw some other more casual ones like ribbed polo or turtlenecks paired with a pair of trousers. Shoulders were sculptured and elongated but in a way that didn’t feel exaggerated. Some looks came with trousers simply too big and cinched by the belt, others were just perfectly tailored. Shirts featured two pockets, a nod to the already mentioned photograph, but also a hint of utility in the ever-so elegant world of Saint Laurent. The utility flirtation continued with blouson shirts, or a semi-sheer windbreaker with a front pocket. The elegance was then brought back by the variations of flamboyant sheer shirts with matching scarves.

Styling felt timelessly fresh, with ties being tucked in the shirt, sleeves being rolled up or the belts being tied in a one-loop knot. The colours were muted but never dull, with shades green, yellow and blue dominating the looks. With no bags in sight, the accessories focus went to the fly-like thick-framed glasses, stirring away from the classy models we are used to seeing from Saint Laurent. Bold choice, which definitely paid off.

AURALEE
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images AURALEE provided by the brand

Diving right into the festival season, Japanese label Auralee gave us a 20-minute summertime style masterclass, and we’re so grateful for it. From flip flops to fisherman inspired hats, the collection is fundamentally trendy-chic but so effortlessly classy. Whether you spend your summer at the beach or in suffocating cities, Auralee got everything you need and more. 

The main focus of the collection was definitely the trench coat. Worn loose for an easygoing effect, it matched with every garment from black ample shorts to fluid yellow sweaters. We absolutely adored the marine bags negligently thrown over the shoulder as if one was too impatient to jump in the sea to worry about what their outfit looks like. Styling played a crucial role in the runway presentation, where sweaters were seen tied at the waist, draped over the shoulders and unexpectedly layered. Leather pendants inspired by sunglasses cases brought practicality to the looks, while sandals and flip flops completed the whole with the utmost “too cool to care” attitude. A cut-out swimsuit paired with fluid black pants did not go unnoticed, and we still cannot get the yellow trench reminiscent of La Nouvelle Vague’s heydays out of our minds.

LOUIS VUITTON
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images LOUIS VUITTON provided the brand

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton Men’s SS26 collection was a deliberate meditation on dandyism, reframed through a cross-cultural dialogue. At the heart of this collection was India, as a lived, textured experience woven into the fabric of each piece. 

The runway was transformed into a life‑sized Snakes and Ladders board created by architect Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai. Terracotta earth tones, pastel blues, and muted purples appeared in fringed knits, fluid linens, and satin. The silhouettes referenced 1950s elegance with transparent tanks and open skirts, while contemporary touches like leather flip-flops and purple-hued bags grounded the collection firmly in the present. Travel bags took center stage throughout the collection, serving as a nod to Louis Vuitton’s legacy as the quintessential house of luxury travel and impeccable craftsmanship.

Fabric and form articulated identity through texture, colour, and resonance, while accessories such as the Buttersoft leather Speedy P9 bag brought a sense of cultural reverence. Louis Vuitton SS26 invited a dialogue that evoked a singular sense of place and presence.