PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 4
editors ELIANA CASA, MAREK BARTEK and MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
JUUN J
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images JUUN J via showstudio.com
Juun J’s Spring 2026 collection reflects a continued exploration of volume and structure, both in form and intention. The show opened with exaggerated, sculpted shoulders and full monochrome suits, most of them disrupted by denim pairs stitched directly onto the trousers. Khaki and camouflage on oversized jackets entered gradually, grounding the collection. Accessories such as bucket bags and leather flip-flops followed in the same understated tone.
Sailor-inspired jumpsuits, this time with ties, and striped full looks appeared towards the end of the show. A denim mini skirt was rethought with pleats, softening a traditionally rigid textile. The collection lightened in its final moments, with long, shimmering dresses paired with wind vests and oversized leather bombers. Layering remains central to Juun J’s work, continuing to build a language rooted in silhouette and construction.
DIOR MEN
review by NATALIE GAL
all images DIOR MEN via vogue.com
Saying we were excited is quite the understatement as we rushed to watch Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior collection, something we’ve been waiting for, speculating about, wondering, even betting on. We sat in silence during the show, an impatient, electric silence. A couple of weeks ago, I wrote an article asking, what comes next for Dior? Turns out, I wasn’t the only one wondering. The world waited, tensely, for today’s show.
If I had to summarise the collection? Mr. Darcy would absolutely wear these pieces if he lived today. Elegant bow-tie collars, naval buttons, whimsical vests, and classic tweeds graced the runway. Historical fashion stepped out of the safety of archives and into the present, blending with contemporary urban streetwear, certainly one of this fashion week’s key themes. We’ve been seeing a surge of softly tailored, elegant trousers, the kind that instantly make a man look dashing, in the spirit of Mr. Darcy himself. Old-school male elegance is clearly making a powerful comeback. While flared pants continue their reign, Anderson’s take on them truly stands out. He seems to understand the female gaze, merging it effortlessly with modern male needs. The result? A beautifully balanced collection. There’s a soft, Bri’ish elegance at the heart of it all. A daring move, considering Dior’s French heritage but one that’s been executed brilliantly.
And the other central theme? Dracula. Think dramatic capes, 18th- and 19th-century waistcoats, and even a full-blown Dracula bag, with the design of the original publication – undoubtedly one of my favorite moments. The elegance of a royal or sire from another romanticised era suddenly feels real, tangible. A new profile for Dior? Absolutely. But it’s fresh, youthful, imaginative, it’s Anderson. The setting itself had great significance: a museum space. On the walls hung two beautiful paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin (1699–1779). A loud message? Perhaps. Chardin’s era was dominated by Baroque and Rococo extravagance, each artist trying to outshine the other. But Chardin stood apart. His art was simple, tender, focused on everyday life and stillness. It was a gentle reminder of what fashion truly is: art. It is multifaceted and functional, but at its core, an expression of self.
The show’s ending was especially moving. Anderson stepped out to greet the audience, receiving a standing ovation, eyes filling with tears. All we can do is applaud. The pressure was immense, but Anderson rose to the occasion and delivered with his unmistakable flair.
OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE provided by the brand
“Pariviera” took place in the intimate backdrop of Rue Jules Chaplain, where Officine Générale delivered ease, form, and precision. Pierre Mahéo’s manipulation of lightweight fabrics and fluid silhouettes offered garments that seemed to breathe, move, and inhabit the wearer with understated Parisian grace. The palette moved between warm beiges, soft olives, and gentle sands, taking us back to Mahéo’s coastal roots. Fabrics were lightweight and fluid, bodies were naturally “draped in air”, suggesting a liberated movement.
Mahéo’s approach revealed his continuous dialogue with the brand’s ethos. His formative years, formed through his collaborations and exchanges with ateliers rooted in Parisian craftsmanship, have shaped his understanding of proportion, materiality, and wearability.
Officine Générale’s SS26 was a measured, intentional evolution that honoured the house’s heritage while answering the present moment’s call for authenticity and comfort.