PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 6
editors ELIANA CASA, MAREK BARTEK and MARIE-PAULINE CESARI
DOUBLET
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images DOUBLET provided by the brand
Doublet’s collection served as reminder that fashion can still carry soul. Inspired by the Japanese word ‘itadakimasu’, which means a ritual of gratitude before a meal, the show explored sustainability through deeply intentional materials and storytelling. No matter the theme, nothing felt heavy-handed, instead the collection was playful, surreal, and quietly moving. On the runway, we saw clothes crafted from fish leather, recycled fishing nets, even eggshell membranes. Yet none of it felt “eco” in the stereotypical way. It was vibrant, fun, and full of Dublet’s signature wit. A jacket looked like it had scales, a knit was pieced together like an abstract farm patch, and graphic tees cheekily nodded to food culture. The collection asked big questions of “What makes a material good? What is true luxury,” but they answered them with a touch of humour. In a moment where sustainability talk can feel repetitive, Dublet offered something more thoughtful: fashion that respects where it comes from, and invites us to reflect too.
WOOYOUNGMI
review by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
all images WOOYOUNGMI provided by the brand
“South Korean summers are hot”, read the first line of Wooyoungmi’s SS26 press release - hitting close to home for everyone in the Parisian heatwave this Fashion week. The collection served as a delightful reminder of the joys that come with much awaited sunshine after a gloomy winter, the relief that comes with a little sweat on bare skin after months of layers and shivering (to be read with a hint more sarcasm for every degree higher it is for you right now).
Wooyoungmi presented a solution for those challenged by heat when it hits cramped cities like Seoul and Paris to remain chic and elegant when everything feels sticky. Centred around lightness, breathability, sensuality, Madame Woo has constructed a collection that maintains the formalities of gentleman’s dressing while prioritising comfort. Silhouettes and details took inspiration from old-world dress codes, answering the question many of us have asked - how did they wear all those clothes back then? Superfine knits, light Lycra, delicate silks are all imaginatively put together to define a high-class, heat-ventilating wardrobe. Tailcoats and hourglass silhouettes, necklines that cut down to the mid-torso, and skin subtly visible through sun protective mesh achieved looks that tastefully expose the body while maintaining just the right amount of dressy. Sleepwear, sportswear and swimwear were all adapted and elevated for everyday casual looks that can transform effortlessly from the city to the beach. Garters, belts and detachable shirt collars were joyful details that reminded us it’s still possible to have fun with fashion when you’re on the brink of heatstroke.
TAAKK
review by MAREK BARTEK
At Taakk, the magic is always in the details but for Spring/Summer 2026, it reached a whole new depth. The collection, titled “The Common Baseline of Art and the Ordinary,” explored the tension between functionality and artistic expression, once again proving that technical innovation doesn’t have to come at the expense of emotional impact.
Designer Takuya Morikawa, known for his background at Issey Miyake and his meticulous approach to fabric development, took familiar wardrobe pieces like suits, shirts, jackets, and pushed their boundaries through fabrication. Gradient textiles evolved beyond colour shifts; instead, garments transformed in purpose and structure. One piece might start as crisp shirting and fade seamlessly into suiting fabric, blurring the line between categories in a way that felt surprisingly natural. Sculptural embroidery, another ongoing signature of the brand, was reimagined into something far more three-dimensional. It wasn’t just surface embellishment anymore. It created volume, tension, even architecture within the garment itself. The overall result was a collection that felt precise and elevated without ever tipping into over-designed
There’s this unspoken confidence to Taakk’s work. It doesn’t scream for attention, but it definitely captivates. Not because of spectacle, but because of thought. In the industry where many chase after extremes or viral moments, Morikawa offers a slower, more considered pace. A collection not built on shock, but on skill. And in that space between “art” and “ordinary,” Taakk continues to carve out something that feels genuinely new.
JACQUEMUS
review by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
It wasn’t the first time we’d seen a designer take on a childlike lens when approaching their collection, however, Simon Jacquemus has a quality about him that turned the concept into something entirely refreshing and new. Through his simplicity and ease in sartorial storytelling, he captured the spirit of his own youth when he started designing before the age of 10, and the wonder of this little boy if only he knew all he would achieve.
The show opened rightfully with a little boy opening a door so large it seemed like a scene from Alice in Wonderland, letting light flood into the metres long runway in the L’Orangerie of the Versailles palace. The show was titled ‘Le Paysan’ loosely translating to Peasant, and so, rather than glorious gowns and excess riches expected within Versailles, Jacquemus looked towards agricultural workers of the 19th century for inspiration. His shapes and details, while luxurious and elegant, tied back to his familial roots reminding us of the family of farmers that he descended from.
In celebration, almost a retrospective, of his career he focused on classic elements of his designs. He remained loyal to the use of linen, cotton, and wool the same way he has done for 16 years and as he will continue to do moving forward. He gives us a backstory to his favourite shapes and silhouettes, such as the jupon provincial skirt worn by his grandmother in his youth, explaining that his family has always been central to his drive. Aprons and sheaths were cut crisp in a classic and minimalistic colour palette and details recalling tablecloths, curtains and home linens evoked memories of a warm, simple home life.