PROTECT THE DOLLS! IT’S TIME FOR FASHION TO GET SERIOUS
words by AYA SOFIA OPPENBERG
editor MAREK BARTEK
The fashion industry loves to sell rebellion, or so it seems. But when it comes to truly backing the rebels, we struggle. Nowhere is that clearer than with trans people, who are the backbone, blueprint, and brilliance of so much of what’s iconic in fashion. From trailblazing first prominent African-American trans model Tracey Africa or actress Octavia St. Laurent to contemporary forces like Munroe Bergdorf, Hunter Shafer, Alex Consani and Aariana Rose Philip, trans creators have shaped what we consider beautiful, bold, and new.
left:
Octavia St. Laurent in Paris Is Burning (1990) via imdb.com
right:
Tracey Africa at House of Omni Ball Tracks New York 1989 by Chantal Regnault
And yet, for all the “love is love” posts and runway applause, trans people (especially Black and brown trans women) remain some of the most marginalized in the world. 2023 was one of the deadliest years on record for trans people, with violence disproportionately targeting trans women of color. In the US alone, anti-trans legislation is at an all-time high, while access to gender-affirming care is being stripped away state after state.
So yeah, the stakes are high. And fashion? Fashion owes a debt.
One way that support has been known to materialize is through merch: simple, wearable activism that raises both awareness and funds. We’ve seen it before: T-shirts and hoodies can become cultural rallying points, offering people a visible way to align themselves with a cause while directing cash to grassroots orgs that need it most. It’s not revolutionary on its own, but when it works, it works.
Troy Sivan, Haider Ackermann and Pedro Pascal wearing ‘Protect The Dolls’ T-shirt via Instagram @connerives
For example, the shirt making waves right now is the “Protect the Dolls” tee, designed by Conner Ives. You’ve seen it on Pedro Pascal, Lisa Rinna, Troye Sivan - the usual suspects with major reach. But the heart of it is real: 100% of proceeds go to Trans Defense Fund LA, a group offering life-saving services like housing, food, and legal aid for trans people in Los Angeles. It’s a small, sharp tool in the bigger fight for safety and dignity.
Of course, buying a shirt isn’t going to dismantle systemic oppression overnight. True solidarity means paying trans talent fairly, platforming trans voices all year (not just for Pride), and holding brands accountable to long-term commitments, not just flashy campaigns. It also means showing up: amplifying trans creators, donating regularly, and advocating for protections both inside and outside the industry.
Protecting the dolls shouldn’t just be a slogan, but the very bare minimum. And aiding to transform the industry into a world where everyone can thrive is in everyone’s best interest. Because, imagine what we’ll see when real talent is no longer restricted, hidden, or boxed in.
Trans charities you can donate to: