BELCANTO AND THE RETURN TO PORTUGUESE CLASSICS

words MAREK BARTEK

At Belcanto, chef José Avillez positions his cooking as an exploration of Portuguese “landscapes” — a concept that risks sounding abstract, but largely holds up on the plate. The tasting menu, traces the restaurant’s evolution, blending recognisable references with a more contemporary, technical approach.  

There’s a clear interest in revisiting classics without leaning too heavily on nostalgia. A lobster “Caesar” reframes something familiar into a more layered composition, while dishes like suckling pig with orange peel purée or scarlet shrimp with green curry show a willingness to step slightly outside traditional boundaries.  The long-standing “garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs” anchors the menu in Belcanto’s history, offering a more playful, almost symbolic take on Portuguese ingredients that has become one of the restaurant’s defining signatures.

There’s a noticeable attention to composition throughout. Plates are built with multiple elements that interact with each other, creating a sense of depth without overwhelming the central ingredient. The opening sequence of snacks — including the gold sphere with partridge and foie gras — sets the tone early, combining technical precision with a sense of playfulness.  

Belcanto ultimately succeeds in presenting a version of Portuguese fine dining that feels confident in its identity. It doesn’t rely on spectacle or constant surprise, but instead builds its impact through consistency, and a well-developed point of view.