DOMES MIRAMARE: CORFU IN REPOSE
words by THORE DAMWERTH
When does a hotel by the sea begin to feel part of it? At Domes Miramare, the Ionian Sea is almost constantly in sight. Beyond the breakfast table, behind the olive trees, at the edge of the pool. I found it everywhere.
The resort itself has lived several lives. Originally built for the Onassis family in the late 1960s, Miramare carries something of that era with it. Not in a nostalgic or overly polished way, but in its proportions, its low architecture and a certain understated glamour. Pale stone meets gardens of century-old olive trees, and the adults-only setting keeps the atmosphere calm. The newer Panoramic Wing adds a more contemporary centerpoint, with generous pools opening towards the coast. Our suite sat high above it all, facing an open horizon of sea and sky.
What I liked most was how quickly the idea of an itinerary became irrelevant. Mornings turned into swims, swims into long lunches, and lunch had a tendency to stretch well into the afternoon. The private beach makes staying close to the water almost inevitable, the Soma Spa provides an occasional reason to leave it.
Dining follows a similar rhythm. That said, we did occasionally venture beyond the hotel. In nearby Moraitika, a local taverna served dangerously good mussels. Back at Miramare, food takes a more considered turn. At Makris, chef Petros Dimas approaches contemporary Greek cuisine with precision, drawing on ingredients from the restaurant’s own farm and local producers in a refined take on Corfiot pastitsada with handmade pappardelle, for one. Antonio’s is deliberately more playful. Italian comfort food, hand-rolled gnocchi and wood-fired pizza cut with scissors at the table. By evening, we found ourselves at the Raw Bar, with sea bass ceviche, cocktails and the sun slowly disappearing over the water.
And if remaining still starts to feel a little too easy, there is the Miramaretta, the hotel’s private speedboat, for seeing Corfu from the sea. Out on the Ionian, the island takes on a different perspective. Hidden stretches of coastline, impossibly clear water and stops to swim straight from the boat. Some experiences need little explanation.
Perhaps that is what stayed with me the most. Miramare does not constantly remind you of its luxury. It is present in the space, the quiet, the proximity of the water and, increasingly rare, the feeling that there is nowhere else you need to be.
