HABIBI, COME TO GRAND HOTEL BRIONI PULA!
words by MAREK BARTEK
I have a theory that some places are victims of their own geography. Tucked away on Croatia's north-western peninsula, Istria has somehow escaped the level of international obsession reserved for Tuscany, despite possessing many of the same qualities. Rolling hills dotted with olive groves, vineyards stretching towards the horizon, sleepy stone villages where lunch so easily turns into dinner, and one of Europe's most beautiful coastlines. It feels familiar, almost nostalgic, yet refreshingly free from the overhyped crowds that have come to define so many of the continent's best-known destinations. Oh, and — if that hasn't been implied enough already — it's disarmingly charming.
all images courtesy of GRAND HOTEL BRIONI PULA, A RADISSON COLLECTION HOTEL
Perched on a secluded stretch of coastline just outside Pula, Grand Hotel Brioni Pula, A Radisson Collection Hotel feels much the same. Originally opened in the early 1970s during Yugoslavia's golden era of tourism, the hotel has recently undergone an extensive renovation that could have so easily erased its past. Instead, it did something far more interesting. Rather than disguising its origins beneath another layer of polished minimalism, the renovation embraces them. The unmistakably modernist architecture remains proudly intact, preserving the rhythm of its geometric lines and monumental concrete forms that defined the period. Walking through the corridors feels strangely like stepping into a beautifully restored time capsule. Not because it feels dated, but because it somehow captures what the building must have felt like when it first opened more than fifty years ago. There is something wonderfully cinematic about it — as though you've travelled back to Yugoslavia, experiencing the hotel much as its first guests once did, only with contemporary comforts folded into every detail.
Morning begins with the Adriatic lapping gently against the shore, accompanied only by the sound of cicadas and the gentle rustling of the pine trees that frame the coastline. Whether you choose the indoor seawater pool, the outdoor one overlooking the sea, or simply wander down the hotel's private access to the water, there's an unusual stillness that makes swimming feel almost therapeutic.
No matter your preferred way to recharge, there's no shortage of ways to do so. The spa is easily among the highlights, offering the kind of calm that makes you forget what day it is altogether, while the gym makes exercising feel almost appealing. Multiple restaurants and a bar ensure you never really need to leave, although one particularly thoughtful detail deserves special mention: the bathrooms are stocked with Acqua di Parma amenities, a rarity given the Italian house's famously selective approach to hotel partnerships. It's a small touch, perhaps, but one that says everything about the hotel's attention to detail. The rooms feel warm and elegant, with floor-to-ceiling sliding doors that frame the landscape like a postcard.
Still, staying at Grand Hotel Brioni would be incomplete without venturing into Istria itself.
The only way to describe nearby Pula is as a hidden gem. Roman gates stand beside socialist apartment blocks, while one of the world's best-preserved Roman amphitheatres somehow coexists with cafés and busy markets. To this day, artists such as Dua Lipa, Lenny Kravitz and John Legend perform there each summer. Walking through the underground tunnels beneath the city only reinforces the peculiar feeling that history here is simply part of everyday existence. It's the mishmash of Italian influences and an undeniably Balkan way of life that gives the city its unique, picturesquely raw oomph.
One afternoon took us inland to an award-winning zero-waste olive farm, recognised as one of Europe's finest eco farms. We might have come for an olive oil tasting, but ended up with an unexpectedly fascinating masterclass on how to recognise exceptional olive oil, why bitterness is often a sign of quality rather than a flaw, and why Istrian olive oils consistently rank among the world's very best. All of the a sudden, By the time we left, supermarket olive oil suddenly seemed far less appealing. Another day ended aboard a boat heading towards the tiny island of Levan. Drinks at a beach club somehow taste even better when enjoyed against the backdrop of impossibly clear turquoise water.
Accompanying us throughout much of the journey was our endlessly charming guide. If anyone is looking to forget someone who broke their heart, Balkan men might just be the answer — or perhaps they'll simply give you another story to tell.
Either way, Istria has a habit of lingering on your mind long after you've left.
Maybe it's the peace. Maybe it's the sea. Or perhaps it's simply the feeling that, for a few days, life became wonderfully uncomplicated. Whatever the reason, Grand Hotel Brioni Pula, A Radisson Collection Hotel is exactly the sort of place you almost hesitate to recommend — not because it isn't exceptional, but because part of you secretly hopes it stays exactly as peaceful as you found it.