words by ANOUK WOUDT

Following the debut of their Fascinating Egypt high jewellery collection, an array of gems and jewels from the Van Cleef & Arpels archive will be on show at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) in Vienna. Positioned opposite some of the most unique and rarely shown items of the significant MAK Collection, their shared displays echo their mutual enthusiasm for exceptional craftsmanship and visionary design. Aptly titled GLANZSTÜCKE — which translates to ‘Masterpieces’ in German — the exhibition drifts throughout all boundaries of the aesthetic realm, from architectural pieces to representations of nature and the cosmos.

all images: MAK Exhibition View, 2026
GLANZSTÜCKE. Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry × Masterpieces from the MAK Collection

MAK Exhibition Hall (ground floor)
on the right and on the left: ZIP Necklaces and Bracelet, 1952–55, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
in the middle: Koloman Moser, Folding Screen, Wiener Werkstätte, 1906, MAK Collection
© Van Cleef & Arpels

Entering the exhibition feels like being swept on a journey through time and space, with items curated across continents and historical ages. The items are thoughtfully arranged to form a maze that highlights parallels that might usually go unseen, guiding visitors through the thematic pillars that uphold the collection.

Starting with objects inspired by travel, Van Cleef & Arpels showcases their scale model of the sailing yacht Varuna, which was designed in 1906. Gold, silver and jasper form its base, which plays with precious materials to create a piece that holds movement, despite staying still. This mini-yacht is juxtaposed by MAK’s Portuguese Carpet from the early 17th century, representing the museum’s world-famous carpet collection. Despite its name, the carpet actually originates from Central Asia, though it was presumably produced for a Portuguese clientele.

Small-scale reproduction of the Varuna yacht, 1906
Yellow gold, silver, jasper, wood, enamel
© Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

So-called Portuguese carpet, Central Asia, early 17th century
Cotton, wool
© MAK

Post-sèjour, the museum places you in a zone of architectural greatness, where art meets functionality. Designs lifted from the heights of the Art Deco period, the modernist movement of the 1930s, and 18th-century chinoiserie fuse to highlight each era’s differences, while highlighting structural beauty and its continuous appearance across the human experience.

Expanding onto the silver screen, the next section tells of classic Viennese topics like opera, dance, and music. Vienna’s ball culture becomes a central theme, decorating the scene with ball gowns and feminine figurines that take the shape of dancers and fairies, connecting MAK’s city history and the Maison’s wanderlust universe.

Koloman Moser, Folding screen, 1906
Execution: Wiener Werkstätte/Karl Beitel/Therese Trethan
Wood, gold and marbled paper, decorative edging
© MAK/Georg Mayer

Next, the idea of ‘Metamorphosis’ is explored in the design context, emphasising innovation and kineticism in high jewellery and other objects across creative fields. A standout of this selection is the Zip necklace — a creation patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1938 — which can be transformed into a bracelet. Inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s representation of aviator suit zippers, this piece borrows its iconography from the world of couture, a major source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels. Closing with an homage to the beauty of nature and the universe, themes of flora, fauna and cosmos are in constant dialogue across both collections. Flowers bring texture and romance, while spherical designs mimic the movement of celestial bodies, ending your journey with a grounding ode to our Earthly home.

This exhibition not only allows you to get a glimpse of a few of Van Cleef & Arpels and MAK’s most emblematic and prized pieces, but takes you on a journey throughout the history of design, applied arts and jewellery. It’s truly an immersive experience and one to look out for next time you make it out to Vienna.

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