MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 4
SHINYAKOZUKA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of SHINYAKOZUKA
Shinyakozuka returned to Milan with one of the season’s most poetic collections, refining its signature language of oversized silhouettes, softness and quiet storytelling.
Titled Watercolour Path, the collection explored blurred vision as both a visual and emotional concept. Inspired by removing his glasses and discovering beauty in an out-of-focus world, Kozuka proposed that familiar things can feel entirely new when viewed differently.
The idea unfolded through painterly brushstrokes, faded photographic prints, sheer layers and washed denim, balanced by bird embroideries, airy knitwear and generous tailoring in soft blues, mint, cream and charcoal. Every look carried a gentle sense of movement, making the clothes feel almost dreamlike. In the end, Watercolour Path wasn’t about seeing more, but about seeing differently — something that worth applying to other aspects of our lives, as well!
THOM BROWNE
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of THOM BROWNE
Returning to Milan for his first standalone menswear show in the city, Thom Browne revisited the foundations of his universe while giving them a distinctly lighter feel for Spring 2027. Set within a garden of hundreds of seersucker flowerpots, the collection bloomed with bees, dragonflies, frogs and honeycomb embroideries, translating the rhythms of nature into one of the designer’s strongest outings in recent memory.
Browne’s signature precision remained intact, but the tailoring felt less rigid than usual. Lightweight seersucker, open-weave cotton, madras checks and relaxed silhouettes softened the house’s unmistakable structure, while untucked poplin shirts, cropped cricket sweaters and airy outerwear gave American prep a fresh new perspective. Straw boater hats, translucent beekeeper veils and colourful silk ties added a theatrical touch without overwhelming the clothes.
Pastels gradually joined Browne’s familiar palette of grey, navy and white before giving way to brighter greens, pinks and yellows, echoing the feeling of a garden coming into bloom. The collection culminated in a pearl-covered bridal look beneath a dramatic veil, closing a show that was full of fantasy with impeccable craftsmanship. It was unmistakably Thom Browne, simply viewed through the optimism of spring.
GIORGIO ARMANI
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of GIORGIO ARMANI
Presented alongside the Giorgio Armani Cruise 2027 womenswear collection, Spring/Summer 2027 unfolded as a celebration of Mediterranean ease. Designed by Leo Dell’Orco, the 160-look presentation drew inspiration from sun-drenched coastlines and bustling markets one discovers on their travels, translating them into a wardrobe of softened tailoring, natural textures and a sense of refinement.
There was plenty to admire in the subtle details. Jackets appeared lighter and longer, trousers seemed less baggy. Washed linens, cottons and shantung silks carried a lived-in quality, as though faded by sun and softened by sea air. Earthy neutrals were punctuated with muted blues, spice tones and dusty lilacs, creating a palette that echoed Mediterranean landscapes without becoming literal.
One of the more unexpected moments came through denim, which appeared more prominently than usual within the Giorgio Armani wardrobe, sitting comfortably alongside safari jackets, utility vests and fluid tailoring. Large canvas bags, woven footwear and delicate embroidery added to the collection’s relaxed, travel-inspired mood.
Leo Dell’Orco demonstrated how small adjustments can breathe fresh life into the familiar. It was a collection rooted in craftsmanship and heritage that yet felt contemporary and new. Armani is entering the new era.