MILAN FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 2

editors ELIANA CASA, MAREK BARTEK, MARIA MOTA and MARIE-PAULINE CESARI

JIL SANDER
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images JIL SANDER provided by the brand

Eight years after Jil Sander last showed at its Piazza Castello headquarters, Simone Bellotti brought the house back home. The stark, all-white, set marked out only by a black-arched runway and Bochum Welt’s experimental soundtrack, felt like a reset, fitting for Bellotti’s first collection here.

His task was both reflective and forward-looking: to honour Jil Sander’s streamlined purity while carving out a personal signature. “Finding a balance between structure, tailoring, and classicism… and modernity and lightness,” he said backstage. That dialogue of opposites shaped the collection. Coats were reimagined in ultra-fine double-face leather, while tailoring revealed flashes of skin through hipbone slits or high vents. Elsewhere, sheer knits were layered to subtle effect, and raw-edged silk swarmed across dresses like sliced pages.

The silhouettes were concisely vertical and precise, softened by dusty pastels and refreshed by mirrored leather, metallic sequins, and even delicate flowers. References to Richard Prince’s “Hoods” and Lucio Fontana’s cuts played out in structured skirts and sharp cut-outs, while knitwear offered an easier, real-world counterbalance of shrunken sweaters layered over denim.

Accessories rounded out the vision with square-toed lace-ups, off-kilter ballet flats, curved pumps, and a new handbag, the Pivot, clean-lined but versatile. Serious but playful in a way, Bellotti’s Jil is finding its footing, and asking the right questions.

FENDI
review by MARIA MOTA

all images FENDI via vogue.com

Fendi delivered a playful SS26 collection, blending classic silhouettes with unexpected sportswear elements. Think sheer and fur tracksuits styled with heels, tailored suits paired with sneakers, and adjustable, functional details throughout. Transparency was a central theme, with layers of tulle, sheer fabrics, and see-through bags revealing sparkling interiors.

Just by entering the venue, it was clear the theme of the show was fun. Designed by Marc Newson. Even the runway felt like a game, reminding us that fashion doesn’t always have to be serious. Polka dot illusions and oversized stitching added to the sense of playfulness, while flowers were in every form: crocheted, cut-out, appliquéd, printed, rendered in fur, and turned into bag charms. The collection exploded with coloUr, soft baby pinks clashed with vibrant primary tones.

Surprise details were everywhere, not just in the bags, which opened to reveal contrasting oversized linings and glittering, candy-like interiors, but throughout the entire collection. Coats featured delicate strips of contrasting fabric holding the two sides together. Slouchy bags opened easily, showing once again that the collection wasn’t about stiffness and perfection, but about play.

VIVETTA
review by MAREK BARTEK

Vivetta dove straight into an underwater fantasy for spring, turning Milan’s autumn chill into a poolside dream. Silky, puffy skirts shimmered like rippling water, layered over swimsuits glimpsed through sheer fabrics. Oversized jackets carried the plush ease of luxurious robes, while fishnet textures and swimwear-inspired silhouettes gave both mermaid fantasy and Portofino chic.

The palette swam from soft aquamarines to punctuating red and violet, with checkered patterns adding a playful dimension. Standouts included striped swimsuit-dresses topped with cape, puffy hats adorned with charms, and jewellery shaped like starfish and wrapped around arms and even legs. Mirror necklaces glinted like sunlight on waves. Trousers turned dresses when belted high at the chest, and models carried sandals as handbags, because why not?

If the collection had a soundtrack, it would be Addison Rae’s “Acquamarine”—fresh, shimmering, and Gen Z-ready. Vivetta knows exactly how to bottle that vibe.

MISSONI
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images MISSONI via vogue.com

Missoni’s SS26 brought out a very specific end-of-summer nostalgic feeling. You’ve just spent a magical summer in Italy, tanning, swimming, drinking martinis and eating many, many gelatos with your girlfriends. But finally, autumn comes, it’s your last day at the beach and you stay until sunset, wishing it never ends. It’s slowly starting to get cold, and you know it’s time to go. So you take all your bags, put on a lightweight jacket and without even noticing, you’ve just created the perfect elegant, yet sexy and chic look to take back home with you. 

That was the Missoni woman this season. She wore oversized jewellery and berets, and she walked in open front sandals and short light weight boots. She appeared in shimmery outwear such as trench coats, blazers, shirts boldly combined either with shorts, or simply with swimming suits. Of course, the signature Missoni patterns were always present. Mazzy Star’s bittersweet “Fade Into You” brought the show to a close with a perfectly crafted sense of nostalgia.

N°21
review by MARIA MOTA

all images N°21 via vogue.com

A play of fabric layering set the tone for the collection. Look N°1 was a perfect synthesis of what was to come: a knit sweater worn over the shoulders, a delicate polka-dot dress, itself layered over a lace bra and sheer skirt, offering a peek at colorful glitter micro-shorts underneath. Chunky socks were styled with high, studded heels, creating a contrast between softness and edge.

Looks featured both fabric and metallic flower brooches, along with signature N°21 tags. Crystal necklaces worked as hair accessories, adding a touch of unexpected glam to the messy beauty looks. Knit sweaters were pinned at the back with brooches, creating volume and shape, showing an easy, instinctive approach to styling. No-collar shirts were paired with collarless cardigans, introducing a preppy silhouette with a twist. Very long sleeves added a bit of chaotic energy. Relaxed, but still considered. Glitter fabric emerged as a clear trend of this season, appearing in micro shorts and dresses, reinforcing the playful yet confident attitude of the collection.

Hair was messy, walks were too. There was a nonchalance in the air and a refusal to be overly polished. A consistent mixing of patterns and fabrics defined the collection, with lace, knits, sheer, glitter, and cotton all coming together. In the end, N°21 is just a girl.

KNWLS
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images KNWLS via vogue.com

For their Milan debut, KNWLS teamed up with Nike on a collaboration that took three years to develop. Charlotte Knowles called it “injecting our fierceness into athleisure,” and the result was anything but expected. The standout was footwear in a form of pointed sneakers with moulded TPU toes, adapted from the brand’s Raptor boots. Futuristic and unfamiliar, they carried the charge of a statement piece, already polarising the fashion community. A Made in Italy bag with a Nike waffle sole pushed the boundary of blending sportswear with luxury craft even further.

The mainline collection didn’t stay far behind. Oversized scuba-bonded leather jackets curved into round, sculptural shoulders with an almost armour-like presence, while corsets and trousers were flipped inside out, seams exposed, as if to show their strength from within. With VTSS soundtracking the show from above and the models storming through a semi-transparent tunnel, the message was clear: KNWLS is here to play on Milan’s terms… and win.