NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 4
TOTEME
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images TOTEME via vogue.com
Toteme brought its brand of Scandinavian minimalism to Park Avenue, showing in the Four Seasons’ storied Pool Room. Elin Kling and Karl Lindman framed the collection around “undone beauty”: models with loosely tied hair, coats shrugged on mid-stride, and new Clip bags left unfastened. Black-and-white tailoring met fluid silks, compact knits, and lived-in textures in the form of washed leather, raw edges, crinkled fabrics. Lace openwork dresses closed the show with a surprising romantic touch, inspired by family tablecloths. Toteme’s formula remains clear: elegance rooted in reality, softened by intimacy. Minimalism here is less about order than about lived experience.
COACH
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images COACH via vogue.com
Stuart Vevers has clearly upped the game at Coach. This is the second show of Coach where the brand’s language shifted into more daring approach, and we are here for it! For Spring 2026 he turned to New York mornings. The city’s emptiness in blazing light served as an inspiration for weathered leathers, patchwork checks, and frayed trousers worn with delicate sandals. The grittiness of scuffed boots, roughed-up denim, sleeveless black leathers was offset by the polish of neat suede bikers and tailored blazers. Accessories included the new cylindrical Kisslock bag, clasped hobos, and pendants strung with coin purses and heart lockets, and are already in our wish lists. Confident and cinematic, the collection built on last season’s success sharpens Coach’s mix of worn-in Americana and modern shine, and makes this one of the most exciting brands to be following.
DIOTIMA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images DIOTIMA via vogue.com
Rachel Scott brought Diotima to the runway with a collection charged by the spirit of Caribbean carnival. Joyful, sensual, resistant. The iconic crochet opened the show, layered into balloon trousers, cascading ruffles, and hoods, before giving way to macramé peplums, feather-like rayon shreds, and sailor collars trimmed in chenille. Colour clashes—guava with lime, neon pink with grey—mirrored carnival’s exuberance. Cage bras were reimagined as power tailoring, while sequinned swimwear and luxe bikinis expanded Scott’s vocabulary. Set to steel pans and Yoko Ono’s moans, the procession felt electric. Diotima’s debut was a storm of craft and sensuality—exuberant proof of why Scott’s star keeps rising.
TORY BURCH
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images TORY BURCH via vogue.com
While many designers opened with white-on-white this season, Tory Burch leaned into colour and quirk. Staged in a 1929 bank, the collection radiated optimism through playful detail: origami-looking collars on polos, slit lapels designed for pendants, ribbed sweaters “mended” with seed beads, and jackets with zips to alter their shape. Low-rise trousers replaced trending balloon pants, while skirts—slim or full—were hitched asymmetrically with sturdy belts. A ribbed knit embroidered with sampler-style stitches, including the initials of Burch’s studio team, added a personal DIY touch. Preppy, but in a more inventive way, Burch continues to sharpen her post-pandemic era, and we already can’t wait to see what’s to come next.
LUAR
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images LUAR via vogue.com
Raúl Lopez staged Luar in stark light, with the low, continuous sound of a boat horn setting a somber mood for a collection rooted in Dominican carnival. Collaborating with artisans, he reimagined traditional costumes into wearable luxury. Funduses fringe appeared as a dramatic plastic cape over cobalt tailoring and as yellow collars patterned with black honeycomb, while laser-cut feather fabrics closed the show in sharp suits. Painterly prints on denim referenced “Los Pintaos,” and amber and larimar jewellery came from Dominican archives. Lean, flared trousers introduced a new silhouette. History, craft, and modern polish intertwined here, in a vibrant tribute to resilience and ancestral joy.
MIISTA
review by VERONICA TLAPANCO SZABÓ
all images MIISTA provided by the brand
Stepping outside the box… quite literally…Miista presented its first ready-to-wear collection at NYFW. Once a go-to brand for clever, chic shoes with a touch of mischief, the East London label now dresses us head to toe. The clothes are ready to be lived in, loved in, layered and re-layered, depending on how you want to feel that day. To debut the line, Miista turned to LA-based choreographer Zoï Tatopoulos, who set a cast of dancers swaying around life-sized shoeboxes. Matching this whimsy, each look was adorned with grey drapings, chopped sleeves, micro minis, sheer chiffons, and pleats upon pleats. Oversized leather belts cinched everything into place, sometimes so big they became skirts, gathering the fabric snugly around the models, for a certain warmth shaped with ease. Baby-pink touches peeked through, as slip dresses teased with wandering zippers, while shirts morphed into skirts or off-the-shoulder tops. It made it all about movement, like that moment you are caught rushing out the door, where everything is in flux, always moving, always alive.