PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 5

KIKO KOSTADINOV
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images courtesy of KIKO KOSTADINOV

Kiko Kostadinov took a different approach this season: one of refining his design language through cut and materiality rather than narrative. Agostino Bonalumi served as a key reference for this collection. By placing structural interventions beneath the canvas, Bonalumi would create an “extroflexion” - a tension between the painting and the force pushing out from it. 

In a similar manner, Kostadinov balanced softness, geometry and structure, adding internal boning under the surface of blazers, trousers, and jackets, exploring the idea of not using stitching to attach elements; Instead, the boning was stitched to the inside fusing, which was then glued to the fabric - letting the clothes build themselves.

ZIGGY CHEN
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images courtesy of ZIGGY CHEN

This season, Ziggy Chen focused on wearability - preserving the clothing’s value and purpose through time-worn textures and thoughtful construction. Fabrics were treated and layered to evoke a sense of age and familiarity. Pleated trousers were paired with oversized structured jackets in earthy tones; washed hemp-linens were treated in malt, creating a lived-in effect emphasizing the natural character of the material. Elongated proportions, distressing, tonal layering, and fluid silhouettes brought a sense of lightness and flow, resulting in garments meant to evolve with the wearer over time. 

HERMÈS
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images courtesy of HERMÈS

One could say it would seem inevitable, that after Véronique Nichanian’s farewell earlier this year, this season Hermès kept things under the radar - a private showroom presentation of fine tailoring in faded earthy palette.

Refined leatherwork was beautifully combined with delicate silks in ivory, finished by structured yet lightweight trousers and jackets in faded greens and olive browns. In response to the hot weather, ties were loosely tied around the neck, adding a more casual touch to the collection.