PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 5
MAGLIANO
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of MAGLIANO
Nostalgia and irony have long been part of Luca Magliano’s design language, but for Spring/Summer 2027 they felt more personal. Inspired by family photo albums collected from his own team, the collection looked back to the 1970s, not to recreate the decade, but to capture the faded elegance and imperfect charm preserved in old photographs.
Presented at Maxim’s in Paris, the collection filtered classic menswear through Magliano’s unmistakably queer lens. Oversized checked tailoring, knitted polos, floral jacquards and relaxed separates carried familiar references, while built-in styling tricks — double collars, layered sleeves and twisted leather belt details — subtly disrupted otherwise conventional silhouettes. Collaborations with Diadora and Carrera added further nods to late-century nostalgia.
Magliano’s signature play on both refinement and dishevelment remained at the heart of the collection. Leopard prints appeared intentionally distressed, tailoring felt slightly off-kilter, and draped tops introduced moments of unexpected elegance. Staged around a chaotic dinner table populated by eccentric characters, the collection embraced the space where memory, humour and imperfection collide, proving once again that few designers reinterpret classic menswear with as much personality as Magliano.
KIKO KOSTADINOV
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images courtesy of KIKO KOSTADINOV
Kiko Kostadinov took a different approach this season: one of refining his design language through cut and materiality rather than narrative. Agostino Bonalumi served as a key reference for this collection. By placing structural interventions beneath the canvas, Bonalumi would create an “extroflexion” - a tension between the painting and the force pushing out from it.
In a similar manner, Kostadinov balanced softness, geometry and structure, adding internal boning under the surface of blazers, trousers, and jackets, exploring the idea of not using stitching to attach elements; Instead, the boning was stitched to the inside fusing, which was then glued to the fabric - letting the clothes build themselves.
ZIGGY CHEN
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images courtesy of ZIGGY CHEN
This season, Ziggy Chen focused on wearability - preserving the clothing’s value and purpose through time-worn textures and thoughtful construction. Fabrics were treated and layered to evoke a sense of age and familiarity. Pleated trousers were paired with oversized structured jackets in earthy tones; washed hemp-linens were treated in malt, creating a lived-in effect emphasizing the natural character of the material. Elongated proportions, distressing, tonal layering, and fluid silhouettes brought a sense of lightness and flow, resulting in garments meant to evolve with the wearer over time.
HERMÈS
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images courtesy of HERMÈS
One could say it would seem inevitable, that after Véronique Nichanian’s farewell earlier this year, this season Hermès kept things under the radar - a private showroom presentation of fine tailoring in faded earthy palette. Refined leatherwork was beautifully combined with delicate silks in ivory, finished by structured yet lightweight trousers and jackets in faded greens and olive browns. The palette rarely strayed beyond sand, stone, and softened black, making texture do most of the work.
High-waisted trousers returned throughout, cut with deep pleats and an easy leg, interrupted by oversized patch pockets. The proportions remained relaxed; Traces of western dressing appeared in silk-linen jackets, printed shirts, knitted vests, or cardigans washed into a faded pink. The way one piece settled next to another was probably the most intriguing: leather against linen, silk against suede, polished shoes beneath trousers barely touching the floor. In response to the hot weather, ties were loosely tied around the neck, adding a more casual touch to the collection.
TAAKK
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of TAAKK
For Spring/Summer 2027, TAAKK’s Takuya Morikawa looked not towards the future, but at the familiar. Titled The Ability of Discovery, the collection drew inspiration from flowers and the photography of Irving Penn, exploring how a shift in perspective can transform ordinary materials into something unexpected.
Shifting away from treating textiles as a foundation, Morikawa made them the collection’s central focus. Signature gradient fabrics blurred colours, textures and weaves, while sculptural embroidered structures created depth through layered cutwork and tape embroidery. Floral motifs appeared not as romantic decoration but as abstract, almost painterly compositions across tailoring, shirts and fluid separates, reflecting the designer’s fascination with time, memory and natural transformation.
Throughout, the silhouettes remained relaxed yet immaculately precise, allowing the craftsmanship to truly shine. The result was a collection that demonstrated TAAKK’s greatest strength: revealing new possibilities within materials that, at first glance, seem predictable.
Y-3
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of Y-3
At the Palais Brongniart, Y-3 transformed the runway into a stylised football pitch, where movement replaced a traditional catwalk. Inspired by the rhythm and emotion of the game, dancers sprinted, paused and collided, demonstrating that the collection was designed not simply to be worn, but to move.
Black dominated throughout, appearing in fluid tailoring, draped dresses and technical sportswear that blurred the boundaries between performance and everyday dressing. Signature Adidas stripes ran across jerseys and tailoring, while reworked Stan Smith sneakers and the return of the archival Yakutat silhouette reinforced the label’s ongoing dialogue between sport and fashion.
The collection reached its strongest point with a collaboration between Y-3 and Japanese designer Takahiro Miyashita. Harness capes, satin shirts embroidered with delicate floral motifs, lightweight tailoring and reimagined football jerseys introduced a softer, more romantic sensibility without sacrificing the collection’s athletic energy. The result was a compelling reminder of Y-3’s enduring ability to fuse technical innovation with emotional storytelling.