PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 4

WILLY CHAVARRIA
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images courtesy of WILLY CHAVARIA

“Comunión is a belief that we are more whole together than apart, that the beauty of a person is sacred, and that the beauty of a many gathered is holy”. Willy Chavarria’s SS27 collection took place inside Espace Niemeyer - the former HQ of the French Communist Party, which, ironically, one hopes, was the chosen setting to embrace joy, hope, optimism, and the “power of collective spirit”.

Plastic pink, blue, yellow and green formed preppy yet sexy silhouettes; tailoring was structured but softened, offering sharp suiting balanced by relaxed trousers. Cocktail dresses with floral motifs slightly resembled our grandma’s faded walls and tablecloths. 

Last but not least: Chavarria’s muse of the show? The baddie: “A baddie is a woman that if somebody tries to steal her bag, she beats the shit out of them. With her bag. And then she takes her lipstick out and keeps walking.”

OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE

Presented along Paris’ Port de l’Arsenal, Officine Générale’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection reflected Pierre Mahéo’s fascination with places of transition. Inspired by harbours and stations where strangers briefly cross paths, the collection proposed a wardrobe that felt suited to everyday life and special occasions, balancing relaxed ease with elegant refinement.

The week’s record-breaking temperatures inevitably shaped the presentation, yet Mahéo resisted designing for a single moment. Instead, he stayed true to the brand’s philosophy, offering lightweight tailoring in washed linen and linen-viscose, crisp poplin shirts, fine knits and supple leather alongside fluid silhouettes that moved effortlessly in the summer breeze. A palette of navy, tobacco, ivory, khaki and charcoal was punctuated by a soft lilac interlude, while subtle shifts in texture added richness and visual depth.

Grounded, polished and eminently wearable, the collection demonstrated that Officine Générale’s greatest strength lies not in chasing trends, but in refining the timeless wardrobe it has built over the years.

LGN
review by FRANCESCO PIZZUTI

Moody, dramatic, sexy, mysterious: LGN Spring/Summer 2027 show went full cinematic as the models, contoured by harsh lighting, walked down the runway as sets of silhouettes, of characters — archetypal without falling into the costume realm.

The show took Twin Peaks as a starting point; a smart choice given the show’s history and cross-generational resonance, and its sharpness, both aesthetically and in the bodily feeling it leaves the viewer with. Crisp summer sunrises, foggy woodds, cold water, high contrast, dark hues.

Dale Cooper’s character, the unsettling elegant detective, is the backbone of the collection, but other characters appear alongside him: a waitress, a rebellious teenager, a femme fatale.

The collection feels sensual in a covert way, through its structures and strong silhouettes, its ample use of leather that gives a raw sense of rebellion, and through its layering of tank tops and dresses.

VETEMENTS
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images courtesy of VETEMENTS

This season Gvasalia served office wear gone bad: raw unfinished sleeves, shirts halfway untucked, neckties reversed, and more constriction anomalies. 

The collection explored societal archetypes and workplace hierarchies; Gvasalia’s goal was to focus on a more grounded kind of clothing - one people actually want to wear. He offered oversized tailoring in sharp construction, structured leather, and deconstructed coats. Womenswear and menswear united in organza dresses, oversized trench coats, and jewellery.

The palette was largely monochrome, interrupted by washed denim and the occasional deep burgundy. Proportions did most of the work: jackets hung lower on the body, trousers pooled over the shoe, and shoulders appeared broader yet not exaggerated. Even the most formal looks carried unresolved elements, either through exposed construction or displaced seams.

Gvasalia pulled apart tailoring piece by piece. Familiar uniforms were reworked without losing their original function, leaving a recognisable yet slightly off-balance wardrobe, questioning how familiar clothing is expected to be worn.