THE DIVERSITY OF TOKYO’S SPRING SUMMER 2027 FASHION WEEK
words by TIANA DE HASETH
Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo presented its Spring Summer 2027 collections last week, bringing together 25 shows from 25 designers. The collections moved between streetwear, avant-garde designs and tailored suiting, showcasing the diversity of Tokyo’s fashion scene.
Opening the week, YOSHIOKUBO brought an outerwear atmosphere to the runway. Black dominated the collection, while pockets became a recurring detail and oversized silhouettes added volume to the looks. This combination of functional outerwear and exaggerated proportions is what gave the collection its futuristic edge.
image courtesy of YOSHIOKUBO
These exaggerated silhouettes were one of the most recurring themes throughout the week on the runway. Designers played with oversized proportions and unconventional shapes that turned the garments into something dramatic, rather than simple.
The dramatisation of proportions became even more playful in MEGAMIURA WARDROBE. The exaggerated silhouettes were paired with maximalist details and funky hats. ENFÖLD went even further, by combining bright colours with sculptural shapes, pleating, latex, aprons, playful uniform references, funky skirts and oversized blazers.
images courtesy of MEGAMIURA WARDROBE and ENFÖLD
At opposite end of the spectrum, CHARINYEH had more minimalist approach to their collection when it comes to their colour pallets, but presented them along exaggerated silhouettes and details that remained chic and estrained. Wavy shapes, ruffles, polka dots, lace, shaped details and spikes added interest while maintaining a more controlled aesthetic.
image courtesy of CHARINYEH
Maximalism appeared across several collections, but instead of focusing on colours and shapes, the designers created an overwhelming effect through the accumulation of smaller details and layers.
YUSHOKUBAYASHI did this on an ultra-maximalist level with its “Mermaid Tears” collection. A pastel colour palette was combined with layers of lace, knitwear, pearls, bows, ruffles and ocean inspired accessories. The collection used these details to create an underwater fantasy, with the ocean brought to life through the clothing itself.
Similarly, REQUAL brought maximalism through patterns, prints, patches, oversized details and playful elements. Its avant-garde approach is what created a sense of visual excess, showing how maximalism could be built through the combination of multiple competing details.
images courtesy of YUSHOKUBAYASHI and REQUAL
MITSURI OKAZAKI also explored maximalism, but with tailoring. Clean-lined garments were combined with pleated details, patterns and bright colours, while balloon pants, puffed shapes, hats, zipped details and three-dimensional elements added volume. The collection balanced structured clothing with an abundance of details, making it neither completely minimal nor fully maximalist.
image courtesy of MITSURI OKAZAKI
In contrast to the louder and more structured collections, softer theme came through pastel colours, delicate fabrics and romantic detailing.
PILLING its collection combined pastel colours with lace, knitted hats, knit sweaters, ombré prints, floral details, pleating, draping, chiffon and ruffles. Blouses, turtlenecks, sweaters and draped collars added the further layers of softness and texture that highlight the feminity of the collection.
EITARO followed a similarly feminine direction but through pleated blouses, pastel colours, mesh and polka dots. The combination of colour and mesh material create 90s feeling, while the way the fabric fell around the models gave the garments a soft, fluid quality.
images courtesy of PILLING and EITARO
These elements also appeared within more maximalist collections, showing that romantic details were not necessarily associated with minimalism. Lace, bows, ruffles and floral motifs could instead become part of a much more extravagant visual language.
KHOKI presented a playful collection, by combining ruffled details, unconventional prints, floral motifs and avant-garde elements along unusual features such as crooked collars, patchwork and funky designs. Made by a collective team, the designers often like to explore the intersection of East and West, by using a collective design approach to create clothing that feel imaginative and humorous.
image courtesy of KHOKI
MEGAMIURA WARDROBE also incorporated this playfulness through its funky hats and exaggerated proportions, while ENFÖLD introduced playful uniform references and unconventional garment shapes. Across these collections, humour came not only from prints and accessories but from the unexpected ways familiar garments were reshaped.
Tailoring was also a recurring theme throughout the week, with ORIMI and HIRATA approaching it from different perspectives.
ORIMI’s philosophy is to question modern clothing through deconstruction and the reworking of familiar pieces. This was seen in his collection through tailored suits, blouses, polo shirts, cargo trousers, jumpsuits, vests and blazers, which were designed with draping, and unexpected pocket details.
Meanwhile, HIRATA combines tailored suits, blouses and blazers with wrinkled details, floral elements and statement hats. The collection was more calm and elegant, showing how tailoring could remain minimalist while still making an impact through accessories and subtle details.
images courtesy of ORIMI and HIRATA
This season really showed the diversity of how designers interpret certain themes. Exaggerated silhouettes could be functional, minimalist or playful. Maximalism could come from layers, decoration or colour and tailoring could either be deconstructed or kept refined. These approaches are what made the Spring Summer 2027 season feel diverse and experimental.
