IN CONVERSATION WITH BEATE SKONARE KARLSSON
interview by AYA SOFIA OPPENBERG
AVAVAV has been drawing attention ever since it was founded in 2021, and in just five years it has managed not only to grew a cult following and but also — with brand’s each outing — challenge how we experience fashion and the world around us. This season was no exception, as the founder and creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson explored the realities of female gaze versus male gaze, inviting the guests of the presentation to walk the runway instead — all while the models were watching them. We caught up with Beate right after the show to discover more details about the collection and her latest partnership with Oatly.
You clearly favour performance over traditional presentations. Who were you trying to make uncomfortable with today's layout?
Thank you! Yes, definitely. I wanted the guests to feel exactly what a model feels when they walk onto a runway: that sense of being completely observed by others.
In a typical show, models are simultaneously romanticised on a pedestal and heavily objectified and judged. I wanted the audience to experience that exposure. It worked!I think people were actually too scared to stay on the runway and just hurried through!
It was fascinating to see the audience’s reaction. Everyone had their phones out, almost as a shield. Was that part of the plan?
I definitely anticipated that people would hide behind their phones. It’s an awkward feeling when you realize the audience is looking back at you. But it also makes the documentation more alive; everyone who records it gives the show their own unique perspective.
Your collection is titled the "female gaze" versus an industry that often feels "male gaze" oriented. How do we see this in the show today?
It’s hard to ignore. This industry is heavily focused on womenswear and female consumers, yet even in 2026, the female perspective remains super underrepresented. As a woman in this industry, you feel that exposure constantly. I feel like I have to talk about it because it’s a phenomenon that isn’t discussed enough.
Your work often balances deep discomfort with humor. How do you find that line without it becoming purely ironic?
To me, it’s almost never just ironic. I use humor because, without it, the message becomes too dark or negative. Humor and frustration go hand in hand: they are both incredibly strong emotions. While one can exist without the other, the work is always better when you have both ingredients.
This show also featured a collaboration with Oatly. How did that partnership come about?
It’s a vital partnership for us. As a small independent brand, having support from bigger, established names is the only way we can actually produce these shows. Oatly is very playful with their products, which worked perfectly with our multi-room concept—moving from the entrance to the "backstage" runway, and finally the show itself.
Do you see Avavav sticking with this presentation style over the traditional runway?
I think so. There is a myth that a runway show has to look exactly one way, but there are no limits to how far you can go creatively.
As a small brand, I’ve decided to only do one major show per year so we can truly focus our time and energy on a strong concept. Right now, I’m actually thinking about a "house party" context for the next one: showing the collection in a completely different, social setting.
