IN CONVERSATION WITH DENNIS HUWAË
interview by NATALIE GAL
Chef Dennis Huwaë is known for his refined craftsmanship in the kitchen, as he has been a defining force in Amsterdam’s culinary landscape. This year is undoubtedly a busy year for Chef Huwaë, his newest restaurant Bistro Féline was included in the Michelin Guide. And as if one recognition weren’t enough, just days after the Michelin announcement Huwaë was honoured in Milan at The Best Chef Awards, where he received a new chef’s knife; a symbolic tribute to his unwavering pursuit of perfection. We had the chance to ask him of his inspirations, the story of his passion and craftsmanship and how the concept of Féline took shape.
The name Féline is intriguing, where does it come from, and what does it mean to you?
It’s actually quite a funny story, because the name came about entirely by chance. I was in the middle of developing Féline and went to visit my friend Boudewijn Vogel, the owner of the Dutch Walltextile Company, to discuss interiors. On his desk lay a beautiful little book with the word Féline on the cover. It turned out to be a wallpaper collection created by Boudewijn’s sister. The name immediately struck me - it had the exact grace and softness I was looking for. I asked if I could use it for the restaurant, and she happily agreed, as long as we didn’t use the original logo. So, we adapted it, and that’s how Bistro Féline was born, by pure coincidence.
The restaurant has a strong Parisian vibe. How did you bring elements of Paris into Féline’s atmosphere and identity?
I’m classically trained in French cuisine; that’s the foundation I learned both in school and later at the Okura Hotel. Over the years, though, I’ve developed my own way of thinking. The techniques are French, but the interpretation is mine. I might take a traditional French cut like Côte de Bœuf and use Japanese Wagyu instead. For me, it’s never about where something comes from, it’s about quality.
Do you have personal ties to Paris, whether through living there or other connections, that shaped the concept of Féline?
Not really in a personal sense, but professionally, yes. A few years ago, we drove to France almost every week for over a year, to source the best products for Restaurant Daalder. That definitely created a bond with the city. The French approach to ingredients is special, and it really stays with you.
You incorporate your Moluccan heritage into your cooking. Could you tell us more about this culture and how it influences your dishes?
My Moluccan roots are a big part of who I am, but they’re not something I consciously try to highlight, they come through naturally in how I cook. The Moluccan culture is all about warmth, generosity and family and that spirit translates to the kitchen. I grew up with food as a way of bringing people together and that’s still how I think about dining today.
In my dishes, you’ll sometimes find subtle hints; a spice blend, a smoky note, a bit of heat, but never in an obvious or forced way. It’s more about intuition and rhythm. French cuisine gave me the technique, but my background gives me the soul.
As you trained in the culinary sciences – how did you experience chef school, and what impact has it had on your approach to cooking?
I spent about ten years in culinary school, finishing in the star class, that’s the highest level you can reach in the Netherlands. I started in Zaandam, then went to the ROC in Amsterdam. My real turning point came when I worked in a small restaurant called De Brakke Grond; the chef there also owned a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Belgium named ‘t Laulierblad. He gave me the chance to work there, and that’s where I fell in love with fine dining; with its discipline, precision and pursuit of perfection.
I’ll never forget the chef: he’d walk into the kitchen in a suit, Rolex on his wrist, and after hours of service he was still spotless. That level of control and respect for the craft stayed with me forever.
Do you have a current favorite dish to cook, either at Féline or at home, that feels seasonal or special right now?
Right now, it’s andijviestamppot at home, a classic Dutch mash with endive. It’s simple and hearty and I always end up eating too much of it. Comfort food at its best. And at Féline, for me it’s not about one specific dish, it’s about working with beautiful products and having the freedom to create. One day I’m in the mood for red mullet, another day for scallops, Wagyu entrecôte or North Sea crab. I love cooking fish, probably even more than meat - but above all I just love working with the seasons.
Finally, what’s next for you and for Bistro Féline, any plans or dreams on the horizon?
Consistency. For me that’s everything, keeping the same level of quality on busy nights, slow nights, rainy days, sunny days. Always the same standard. Of course, I’m a dreamer, there are plans and ideas for the future - but some dreams are best kept quiet until they’re ready to be shared.
