IN CONVERSATION WITH PIERRE RAINERO, WITH CARTIER

interview by TIMOTEJ LETONJA
words by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI

At Watches and Wonders, we had the pleasure of sitting down with Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Image, Style, and Heritage Director. With nearly four decades at the Maison, Pierre plays a key role in preserving Cartier’s legacy while ensuring its continued evolution. From overseeing the Cartier Collection to shaping the brand’s stylistic vision, he offers unique insights into how heritage and innovation coexist at Cartier.

image credit: PIERRE RAINERO, courtesy of Cartier

How does Cartier balance heritage and innovation while maintaining its signature style?

I love that question! At Cartier, evolution is part of our DNA. Louis Cartier inherited the Maison rather than founding it, which gave him a forward-thinking approach—he saw change as a responsibility rather than a risk. Growing up in an era of rapid technological and societal shifts, he embraced progress and innovation.

Often, heritage and modernity are seen as opposites, but Cartier’s history teaches us that evolution is essential. From 1898 to 1942, the Maison underwent constant transformation in style, craftsmanship, and innovation. This legacy of change continues to inspire us.

Another key factor is Cartier’s strong, structured design philosophy. Our creations are not only original but also relevant and adaptable over time. Icons like the Santos and the Tank evolve while staying true to their essence—that’s what we call strong design.

left:
TANK LOUIS CARTIER available from August 2025

right:
SANTOS DE CARTIER SMALL MODEL available from June 2025

I completely agree. For instance, when Cartier introduces a new shape or size, like the Santos this year, it’s still instantly recognisable.

Absolutely. Proportions, materials, and details can be reinterpreted in countless ways while preserving the core essence. Take the latest Santos—it comes in various versions already, but its potential for future variations is endless, whether through material choices, dial treatments, or other elements. That’s how we apply our heritage to contemporary creativity.

That makes perfect sense. I have a follow-up question—what do you think is the biggest challenge in defining luxury in today’s fast-changing world?

There are many different definitions of luxury. Personally, I’d say time is the greatest luxury—having time for oneself. When it comes to objects, luxury should bring beauty and joy to life. A luxury object represents an achievement in craftsmanship, design, and artistry. The material itself is not as important as the beauty of the execution. Luxury should provide not only personal enjoyment but also a sense of admiration for the skill and dedication behind its creation.

That’s a beautiful way to put it. I see that admiration all the time, especially with iconic brands. Even people who may never own certain luxury pieces still feel a sense of pride in their existence.

Exactly! I experienced that firsthand while living in Italy—people admire Ferraris, even if they can’t afford one, because they recognize the craftsmanship and heritage behind them. Luxury should evoke that kind of pride and appreciation for human ingenuity.

I love that perspective. Moving on to Watches and Wonders—what excites you most about this year’s presentation? What are some of the highlights for you?

Every year, people ask whether we are reinterpreting existing designs or introducing something entirely new. Of course, we work on evolving our iconic pieces, but what excites me most is presenting completely new designs.

CARTIER PRIVÉ available exclusively from September 2025

That piece is stunning—more of an artistic statement, right?

Yes, but also a functional object. It features a unique way of reading time, which may seem unfamiliar at first, but that’s part of its charm. Timekeeping conventions evolve, just like digital watches did when they first appeared. This model, first introduced in 1928, represents Cartier’s pursuit of essential design. Over time, we’ve refined its proportions and mechanics to enhance reliability while maintaining its original aesthetic vision.

I have to admit, it took me a second to figure out how to read the time on it!

That’s completely understandable! But once you grasp it, you realize it’s a pure, minimalistic approach to watchmaking. The movement itself is called a "jumping hours" complication—the hour display jumps forward precisely at the turn of the minute, ensuring clear readability. It’s an intricate yet aesthetically driven mechanism.

That level of craftsmanship is remarkable. Speaking of reinvention, after decades at Cartier, what still excites you the most about your role?

I love new developments and creative challenges. What keeps me engaged is the constant innovation and collaboration. I don’t work alone—I work with incredibly talented people from different generations, backgrounds, and areas of expertise. Seeing fresh perspectives and ideas come to life is incredibly rewarding.

And new people keep joining the team, bringing new energy.

Exactly! It’s fascinating to guide and exchange ideas with younger team members. The only challenge is when young designers feel overly certain about their views—I encourage open-mindedness and a focus on relevance. Every generation brings something new, but true creativity lies in understanding how to make past inspirations relevant for today’s world.

That’s a great insight. Finally, how do you see Cartier’s archives and historical collection influencing future generations of designers?

Our archives hold everything we’ve produced, but the real key is understanding the philosophy behind those creations. An object from the past had a role and a meaning in its time, but today’s context is different. Future designers should not only appreciate the aesthetic value of historical pieces but also ask themselves, ‘How is this relevant today?’ That’s the most important lesson—to create with relevance, not just nostalgia.

That’s an inspiring message. Thank you so much for your time, Pierre. It’s been a pleasure.