DIOR PRESENTS ITS CRUISE 2026 SHOW IN ROME

words by MAREK BARTEK

For (her last) Dior’s Cruise 2026 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri returned to familiar ground, literally. Rome, her hometown and one of the house’s long-standing muses, became the backdrop for a Dior’s Cruise 2026.

image credit: ADRIEN DIRAND/FONDAZIONE TORLONIA, provided by the brand

Presented in the gardens of Villa Albani Torlonia, the dancers led guests through the grounds, passing baroque-inspired installations and live music. But once the show started, it became clear that no matter the grandiose entrance, at the House of Dior, the clothes will always be the focal point.

image credit: ADRIEN DIRAND/FONDAZIONE TORLONIA, provided by the brand

Despite being rooted in history with that sharply present twist, the collection explored themes way deeper than nostalgia. It was about what happens when fashion brushes up against memory, myth, and the theatrical chaos of history. Or, as Chiuri put it, a kind of “bella confusione”. Chiuri leaned into contrast, pairing masculine vests with full skirts. Sharp military jackets trimmed in black, and delicate lace dresses with modern cuts were coded in ecclesiastical silhouettes and mid-century couture but nothing felt dated. Instead, the collection moved easily between costume and contemporary.

White played a starring role. Not in a sterile, minimal way, but as a base for layered fabrics and sculptural shapes. When colour did appear, it had purpose. Black velvet, deep red, and gold brought in weight and drama, echoing the grandeur of Rome without feeling too costume-y.

Historical references were embedded but not heavy-handed. There were quiet tributes to the Fontana sisters, the golden age of Italian cinema, and even vintage toiles reinterpreted from Tirelli’s archives in ghost-like forms that flickered in and out of the show’s visual language.

For Dior, Italy has always been so much more  just a location. From Christian Dior’s original love affair with the Mediterranean to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s personal ties to Rome, this Cruise collection (though the last one for Chiuri) is a beautiful chapter in an ongoing conversation between heritage and reinvention.

images credit: DIOR/FONDAZIONE TORLONIA, provided by the brand