EXPLORING ‘QUEER’ WITH MUBI NEDERLAND: A NIGHT OF DIALOGUE AND FASHION

Apr 27

words by MARIE-PAULINE CESARI

On Wednesday, April 23, Numéro Netherlands and MUBI Nederland hosted an intimate evening at Soho House Amsterdam to celebrate our collaboration and the release of Luca Guadagnino’s new film, Queer.

Set in a cozy, low-lit screening room, we watched selected scenes from the film—a quiet, emotional adaptation of William S. Burroughs’ text, full of longing, confusion, and the search for connection. After the screening, we opened up a conversation with three inspiring guests: Jean Paul Paula (Stylist & Creative Director), Rebecca Breuer (Philosopher, Artist & Senior Lecturer in Philosophy of Art and Culture), and Esra Çöpür (Costume Designer).

The discussion moved between the 1950s and today, touching on everything from desire and coded language to the way clothes can speak when words fall short.

We explored:
– What it meant to be “seen” as queer in the 1950s
– How secrecy shaped queer identity and subcultures
– How styling and costume can express deep emotions
– The role of hidden spaces as places of freedom
– Fashion as a quiet kind of storytelling

“Back then, finding out if someone was like you came with risk. It wasn’t about visibility—it was about survival.”

— Rebecca Breuer

Rebecca gave us historical context that really anchored the film—how queerness had to live in the shadows, and how the character Lee’s obsession felt like a silent cry for recognition. That desire to be understood without having to say anything… It still resonates today.

Jean Paul brought a more critical angle. He reminded us that not all portrayals of queerness hit the mark: “When he says, ‘You’re not queer, are you?’ It's not about queerness. It’s about ego. It’s ‘You’re not into me—so I must not be your type.’ That’s insecurity, not insight.”He pushed back on the idea that queerness always has to come with pain or disconnection “There’s a broader palette for queerness now—it doesn’t need to perform or explain itself. But this film still felt like it was trying to define queerness through pain.”

Esra talked about how fashion doesn’t need to be loud to say something meaningful. Sometimes, it’s the little details that matter most: “It’s about making the characters legible without words—to use clothes as a quiet form of queerness.” She explained how even subtle choices—like a necklace or the absence of one—can hold weight. It wasn’t about dressing the characters in a “queer look,” but about expressing emotion through texture, color, and shape.

“It’s not about putting someone in a ‘queer uniform.’ It’s about nuance, about showing who they are inside.”

— Jean Paul Paula

As people sipped mezcal cocktails and munched on popcorn with lime zest, the conversations kept flowing. We ended with a roundtable where we talked about how queer self-expression has changed—how it’s grown from secret codes into something more open, more free.

“Queerness shouldn’t only exist through tragedy. It can be joy. It can be boring. It can be mundane. That’s the goal: to make it real”

— Jean Paul Paula

At the end of the night, Queer felt less like just a film and more like a spark - something to think about, talk about, and feel together. It might not have given all the answers, but it made us look a little closer. Thanks to everyone who came and shared this special evening with us. For the stories, the questions, and the moments in between—we’re really grateful. Let’s keep the conversation going.