MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 2

editors ELIANA CASA and MAREK BARTEK

PRONOUNCE
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images PRONOUNCE provided by the brand

As the first Chinese brand invited to show at Milan Fashion Week in 2019, Pronounce unveils every year a collection filled with avant-garde creativity. This season was no exception, with a collection that erotically twisted the code of tailoring to reveal the bodies in an effortless movement. Think earth tones meeting pastel hues, mastered layering and flowing materials. 

For the Spring/Summer 2026 collection, designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou drew inspiration from utilitarian wear, while still maintaining a sensual feel to the garments. The iconic print rope came back in full swing, colliding on the runway with fluid long coats. The devil is in the details, and it is not the intrically layered chiffon skirts or the belt buckles adorned shoes that said the opposite. Scarf collars brought timeless  influence to the collection, while shiny technical material infused a futuristic Geist to the whole. Superb necklaces made of gemstone hanging on a keychain ring were the ethereal touch of the collection, bringing together the voluptuary masculinity so dear to Pronounce.

DOLCE & GABBANA
review by FIONA FROMMELT

all images DOLCE & GABBANA provided by the brand

Good Morning, Dolce and Gabbana! Cavalleria Rusticana, followed by Beethoven’s Fifth. The runway begins, and we’re left wondering: did we just die and wake up in pyjama heaven?

Stripes go in every direction. Velvet textures meet light beiges, creamy browns, and sky blues. Shirts and trousers in pyjama aesthetics are styled with utilitarian fur vests, leather trenches, and oversized jackets, andtank tops under sharp-shouldered blazers. Suddenly, sleepwear reads business-ready. Comfort, but make it preppy, make it boardroom.
We witness accents of leopard and zebra prints on coats and bags. Polo shirts get a twist in both colour and shape, featuring mustard yellow and wine red, which imitate the collars of blazers and incorporate cut-outs. Then the runway fills with suits featuring polka dots and stripes, paired with ivy caps. The Finale: Colourful pyjamas embroidered with ornaments and florals, worn with chunky, stone-studded jewellery.
All the models are wearing sunglasses, as if it is too early to talk to them. Accessories serve both form and function; bags resembling necessaires and utility pouches meet oversized totes fit for a sleepover or the beach, whichever it is we know we are in for a hot summer. Most of the models wear brooches on their pyjamas, making them feel luxuriously cool, while combined with furry flip-flops and slippers, along with socks in slides, grounding them and completing the look. 

This was an unusual runway for the Dolce & Gabbana duo, but a very welcoming and fun one to witness. These sleepwear-inspired looks were maximally elevated, serving a preppy aesthetic, and looking unapologetically luxurious. Wearing “pyjamas” in public may still raise eyebrows, but if they’re Dolce & Gabbana, what could anyone possibly say? If this runway inspired you to wear home wear outside, there’s only one way to do it: and that is the Dolce & Gabbana way.

PAUL SMITH
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images PAUL SMITH provided by the brand

For the first time ever, Paul Smith presented his men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week. The show took place in Smith’s Italian headquarters in a very intimate setting.

Models walked in perfectly tailored yet playful suits, jackets, cardigans and shorts in vibrant pink, yellow, orange and olive green, holding colourful net bags filled with fruit and vegetables – a dreamy fit for a quiet sophisticated shopping at the market. The cheekiness of Smith shows in the way he incorporates standout elements into classical tailoring, with leather details appearing as decoration on the trousers, with Paul Smith’s logo hotel key tags hooked onto them. The palette was moving between muted and vibrant tones, with colour combinations that felt really fresh.

Paul Smith himself narrated the show, talking about the inspiration behind the collection, and his visits to the local markets, allowing us to feel even more connected and close to his work. Smith shared that before each show, his wife Pauline gives him a “lucky rabbit”, to bring him luck all the way from his beloved London.

EMPORIO ARMANI
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images EMPORIO ARMANI via vogue.com

Emporio Armani are going back to the “origini” with their Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s show. In his notes, the Italian master of elegance shares that this collection is a tribute to the South that never fails to inspire. 

The collection was a search for symbols and textures, paying tribute to African motifs, with meaning that goes beyond the geographical area. Armani revisited certain themes like tradition and craftsmanship, with familiar codes such as drape, structure, pleats, earthy tones, and natural fibers like cotton, silk and linen.

Models walked wearing Moroccan inspired mosaic-print trousers, open shirts, combined with beaded bags and braided hats. Reimagined suede djellaba, scarves and jacquard trousers were paired with suede leather or raffia laced up shoes. 

For the first time in his career, Giorgio Armani did not attend his show, announcing that this season, he is recovering at home (and getting better). Representing him for the Emporio Armani show this season was his historic right hand and the head of menswear design, Leo Dell’Orco.