MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 1
editors ELIANA CASA and MAREK BARTEK
UMA WANG
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images UMA WANG provided by the brand
It’s a new dawn for Uma Wang who graces this season with her first menswear collection. It was after an inspiring trip to Bhutan that the designer wished to translate the seamless encounter of tradition and modernity she witnessed into clothing, and turned to the men’s closet to embody her vision. As Uma said herself “It required a completely different approach to design for men, because it feels like a whole other universe”.
The story of the reunion between old and new is told through the duality of textures, either fluid and adorned with intricate patterns or stiff, echoing the effect of passing time. References to traditional Bhutanese wardrobe peaked out thanks to floral elements around which the garment took life. Flowing silhouettes presented the Uma Wang man as a versatile entity. Earthly hues and dark tones dominated the collection, while textured leather bags like from another decade infused a touch of sophistication to the whole. We fell head over heels for a pair of bi-color squared toes shoes, whose playfulness showcased Wang’s impressive creative range.
MSGM
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images MSGM provided by the brand
Cheeky and unexpected, MSGM's newest collection turns to the biking world for inspiration. More than the world itself it is the lifestyle that Massimo Giorgetti embraces and gives the honour for the Spring/Summer 2026 season (and as a proud Amsterdam-based magazine, we completely get it). Natural prints showcasing bikes lead the way and collide with technical-wear elements to embody the revitalising energy generated by a meditative bike ride.
Endorphins took a special place in the collection, so much that Giorgetti even printed the definition of the word on washed pink t-shirts, proving that movement brings happiness. We fell under the charm of a black sweater adorned with tiny bike wheels like a 3D monogram, and large slouchy pockets stole the show on oversized jackets and pants. Intended for versatility and comfort, the fabrication processes of the garments were reinvented and adapted to fit the Geist of the collection, while a floral embroidered jacket stands halfway between class and relaxation. And how not to mention the adorable nod to History’s most famous bike trail, the Maglia Gialla and the Maglia Rosa, whose names appear on oversized t-shirts perfect for outdoor afternoons.
SETCHU
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
all images SETCHU via vogue.com
Back for the season to make our heads turn, the Japanese label Setchu embarked on a journey filled with beaming sunlight and sun-kissed skin. Summer is the season to let loose and founder Satoshi Kuwata used the undefinable energy of the season to present a collection where fun, exploration and deconstruction are the cornerstones of every garment.
Tailoring is seen through a new lens, with shirts knotted at the front or cut under the arms to resemble a cape. Straw was the main character of the show, used to make large hats or rigid skirts layered over a blue shirt. The concept oscillates between flowing movement or stiff straightness, creating a harmonious duality present at every step. Waists were cinched, pants were large, up to the point some hanged onto models’ hips by a thread – literally. Some of them even walked naked, reminiscing of the eroticism attached to summertime.
RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL provided by the brand
Ralph Lauren Purple Label felt summery, like a leisurely escape to the Riviera: sunlit, breezy, and refined. The heart of the collection was drenched in light beige tones. Think sun-warmed sand and linen sets that whispered old‑money elegance. Yes, old-money is still in the game. Loose linen blazers and matching trousers drifted with the ease of a Mediterranean breeze. These looks conjured a timeless lifestyle: mornings with café crème, afternoons lounging by a private villa, evenings under softly lit terraces.
Interrupting the seaside calm were a few sharper, darker moments: sleek evening silhouettes in charcoal and deep navy. This little dip into darkness felt very intentional: an urban twist to coastal fantasy, a reminder that modern luxury can be both light-hearted and edgy, offering a modern twist to Ralph’s legacy of preppy perfection. It was the brand’s nod to a more contemporary allure - tailored, polished, slightly mysterious.
The Riviera atmosphere was furthered by subtle nods to nautical life, crisp cuts, relaxed silhouettes, and natural fibers that hinted at seaside yachting. Light khaki and linen twinned masterfully with Sahara beige and gentle taupe, giving each look a sunlit texture. The beachy ease was balanced by tailored proportions, giving the collection a polished look. Ultimately, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label collection was a sartorial love letter to Riviera living: summery, sun-drenched, and luxurious.
FIORUCCI
review by NIA TOPALOVA
all images FIORUCCI provided by the brand
Fiorucci presented unexpected pairings: glossy bodysuits wrapped in micro leather skirts that hovered just around the hips. Shirt-dresses worn over leather minis created fresh silhouettes, and polka dots are definitely back, adorning delicate blouses and sculptural tops, scattered across denim, tees, and maxis.
Sporty threads were peppered throughout body-hugging cardigans and cropped baby tees peeked out from under cropped track-style jackets. The effect was a streetwise energy balanced against high-shine materials. Jelly sandals, modified sneakers and low-profile heels completed each look, inviting ease in movement. Colour-wise, Murri focused on contrast: pastel tones of baby blue, soft pink, and white were punctuated by jet-black leather mini-skirts or bold spots. The palette was tender but never twee. Some of the looks didn’t even include actual tops, just paint mimicking perfectly well the fabric, leaving models bare above the waist, dressed only from the hips down. It was a move completely in step with Fiorucci’s anything-goes attitude.
The layering: bodysuit under leather, baby tee under baby cardigan, felt purposeful, even rebellious, hinting at a new concept of femininity. Polka dots and dog prints? Fiorucci is back, and it’s here to delight.