PARIS FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER DAY 2

editors ELIANA CASA, MAREK BARTEK and MARIE-PAULINE CESARI

JEANNE FRIOT
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images JEANNE FRIOT provided by the brand

Jeanne Friot took over the French capital for her Spring/Summer 2026 show, which felt more like a celebration of queer life than a conventional fashion presentation. Techno music blasting, politicised slogans and a widely diverse cast turned this show into a colourful party where awareness becomes sexy. The staple stacked belt straps appeared in various metallic hues, representing the multiplicity of queer identities. Between slogan t-shirts, short tartan skirts and pastel colours, Jeanne Friot knew how to infuse political discourse into her creations while keeping the mood light and amusing, and we just wanted to be a part of it.

To honour the amazing souls that came before and the ones in need of protection today, Jeanne Friot used the colours of the trans flag as a connecting thread throughout the whole collection. Pastel blue, baby pink and neutral white composed metallic, and long fluid dresses, tartan coats, with touches of black, paying homage to Black Trans Lives. With slogans screaming “Trans Lives Matter” on baby tees, the message became more than clear: fashion is political and using our voices is essential in these times of crisis. Alongside these statement pieces, we found XL bomber jackets reminding us to stay ready for the fight as well as sharp and bold silhouettes that unapologetically called for authenticity of self.

ACNE STUDIOS
review by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER

all images ACNE STUDIOS provided by the brand

Acne Studios dived into the multiple facets of masculinity for their Spring/Summer 2026 collection, like a moodboard of male identity. Soft, adventurous or casual, the Acne Studios man dared to challenge the normative gender codes and infused an air of rebellion. With sharp lines, raw materials and versatile silhouettes, creative director Jonny Johansson conveyed a shared desire to build new symbols and shift the status quo when it comes to menswear. With a geeky, softboy feel, this collection confidently opened doors for a liberated self-expression.

Rather slim and elongated, the silhouettes of the collection announced the coming of a new era for fashion: the revival of skinny and tight fits, foreshadowed on social media. Colourful leather jackets closely embraced the bodies while straight legged pants shifted away from the baggy and oversized jeans that dominated our wardrobes the past years. True to form, Acne Studios presented denim sets that were distressed and reimagined with metallic touches to give it a gritty finish and tight fluid shorts. Floral shirts met teal cowboy boots and the looks were perfectly completed with the Camero bag, rethought for the occasion in a wide array of colours, sizes and textures. We absolutely adored the aviator sunglasses and vintage eyewear that brought the1970’s back to life.

LEMAIRE
review by SONNY NGO

all images LEMAIRE by GREGOIRE AVENEL and provided by the brand

With a live guitar and drum, a white sun hanging from grey walls, and in the midst of a sweltering heatwave, Lemaire’s latest show had a refreshingly cool attitude, and welcomed guests with a much needed fresh juice. 

To the sound of a steady mechanical-like beat, the runway was opened with a classic brown trench coat – setting the tone for the classic Parisian style we are so used to seeing from the House. And yet, each season, creative duo Cristophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are able to keep timeless codes interesting. Satin fabrics and capri length wide pants allowed for flowy movements, while layers were styled with both sensual and purposeful precision. Accessories and details shone extra bright today; round sunnies and dark shades were perfect for the scorching weather, leather sandals were fixed with transparent fabric underneath their straps, and subtle red touches were heart-warming. In addition, shirts and trousers appeared to have some type of Western inspiration, as golden pin details were found all over. 

Most notable perhaps were the necklaces: oddly chosen shapes in both silver and gold – they gave the collection an extra layer of allure. Overall, the show was clean and confident. A bit coy, a little playful, and imbued with enough restraint to keep us stuck in its charm. It very much exuded a certain je ne sais quoi we all seem to love. Moreover, there was a lot of humour this season, almost as if Lemaire and Tran shared an intimate moment with us; communicating an inside joke only we could understand. What other collection would have wooden forks as necklaces? 

3.PARADIS
review by SONNY NGO

all images 3.PARADIS provided by the brand

If you haven’t clocked that 3.Paradis is one of the most exciting brands to watch out for, then this show made it crystal clear. Titled “Steps to Nowhere,” the collection was a masterclass in storytelling, using a conceptual desert to play with the illusion of time and the way it moves slowly, infinite, and eternally at its own pace.

In theme with the current Parisian heat, models walked out sluggishly, with nowhere to rush to. Time, at times, appeared to stand still, giving us all a longer look at the striking colourways and details. From brown, orange, beige and yellow, to navy blues and bright pinks, the palette was bold; and yet it could blend in with the desert environment – almost appearing like a hallucination or fata morgana one might see in heated desolation. Standout couture pieces make it seem as if sandstorms are tearing shirts apart in their ferocious whirlwind, and incredible details – like triple stacked hats and quadruple belts – further sell this illusioned story. Strengthening this surrealist aesthetic, Daliesque prints find their way onto swim shorts, and the beloved Little Prince is celebrated on print as well, both on the garments and with the book as company! 

Even more striking, watches were seen all over: printed and glued onto jackets. Time moves weirdly in the desert, so trust me, you will need all the possible watches to keep track of it. Closing the show was an incredible couture pearl dress, embodying the essence of the collection: an absolute dream. 

HED MAYNER
review by NIA TOPALOVA

all images HED MAYNER provided by the brand

“Something that’s been made to be soft, with confidence.
Something that is clear.
Something strong.” 

Last season, Hed Mayner began to move his practice towards a sense of anti-construction, leaving behind his approach to architectural structures. Instead, he now concentrates on softness, lightness, aiming to reduce the space between the garment and the body.

Spring/Summer 2026 offered 1950s couture inspiration, floral romance, and even references of bygone sofas and worn out dining room chairs. Fluidity was essential for the collection, seen in the hooded parkas, the weightless cotton blazers, as well as the handkerchief shorts and trousers.

Mayner aimed to empty the pieces of their typical structure, wrapping them more closely and intimately around the body, leaving space for air to move around through openings and layers. Once again, Hed Mayner demonstrated how exceptionally skilled he is in finding and applying the perfect balance between structure, fluidity and movement. 

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
review by MAREK BARTEK

Walter van Beirendonck presented deeply emotional piece of work this season, reflecting on the reality we live in. As Beirendonck himself shared: “I want to stay the stay-eyed, wide-eyed boy I always was. Believe in the best of humans, full of hope for the world. But it’s becoming harder and harder.”

The collection draws inspiration from various sources: artists’ workwear, historical dresses, Anna Piaggi, the Italian fashion writer and master of clash herself, and his own childhood memories. In a true Beirendonck’s fashion, the collection is loud and experimental. Knee-length trench coats and utility jackets come in “happy” camouflage full of bright greens and red, with shaggy cuffs and collar. The abundance of patterns went from more traditional plaid, various floral motifs, contrasting stripes, and tattoo-style print all the way to Beirendonck’s childhood photographs. Beyond the clash-chic, the collection offered a great amount of single breasted blazer, tailored trousers and shorts, as well as funky tank tops. Buttons were large and covered in matching textile. As the show progressed we saw the shift to a complete deconstruction with a seeming effort to “build things back” using the “incorrect” pieces.

Accessories were eye-catching. Elaborate necklaces, slightly blown up bowler hats, scarves and earrings resembling objects like combs or shoehorns. Shoes were covered in dull spikes created edgy yet soft feel.

LOUBOUTIN
review by NIA TOPALOVA

This Spring/Summer 2026, we witnessed Louboutin’s first sartorial collection in Paris, presented through live performances, with dancers playfully bringing each creation to life. The collection featured three specialised techniques, developed in front of the public by master Italian and French artisans: Patinato (hand-finished leather patina); intricate embroidery, requiring up to 55 hours of work; and refined shoe shining techniques. The silhouettes focused on elements from the equestrian world, boots inspired by horseback riding, as well as footwear and shirts with piercing-like elements. 

The show took place in Marie Antoinette’s private bedroom – the place where she once took piano lessons. With their first ready-to-wear collection, Louboutin brought together heritage craftsmanship, theatrical presentation, and a deeply symbolic historical setting.

AMI
review by FIONA FROMMELT

all images AMI provided by the brand

With Place des Victoires as a stage and the sun setting timely for the show to begin, AMI Paris presented a collection that felt like a gentle breeze through the French countryside. It was romantic, steady, and of course, unmistakably Parisian. Alexandre Mattiussi once again leaned into quiet elegance, offering a wardrobe built on balance, steadiness, and subtle charm.

The colour palette stayed true to AMI’s signature restraint: light yellows, beiges, and browns, with soft injections of light blue and grounding notes of black. Layers were key: knee-length dress shirts floated over tailored shorts and pleated skirts, anchored by flowy shirts and suede jackets. Scarves tied at the neck added a rustic vibe, while big belts were adorned on skirts and pants. Jeans and polo shirts nodded to classic summer staples. Suede leather played a central role in bags, shorts, and jackets, while silk skirts, tops and skirts were belted with matching fabrics. Flip-flops paired unexpectedly with elevated silhouettes, while loafers worn with socks offered a sense of grounded nonchalance and ease.

This summer, Mattiussi isn’t chasing trends. Instead, he’s inviting us into a world of essentials, and a place where a smize and good (Parisian) style is the only accessory you need.