FENDI UNVEILS ITS CRUISE 2027 COLLECTION THROUGH A SHORT FILM
words by ANOUK WOUDT
Through a short film titled OLTRE LO SPECCHIO / BEYOND THE MIRROR, Maria Grazia Chiuri debuts her first pre-collection for Fendi, inviting us into a dark and deserted version of Rome as seen through the eyes of its wandering protagonist. Amongst solemn corridors, the unsettling characters of Fendi appear, encasing us in a sombre interpretation of the bourgeoisie. Posing a stark contrast to the brand’s image, Chiuri seems to be leading FENDI down a more understated path, opting for an achromatic, genderless wardrobe that aligns with her “Less I, more us” philosophy.
all images courtesy of FENDI
The film itself was conceived as a celebratory homage to the first-ever fashion film in history: Jacques de Bascher’s Histoire d’Eau, which was commissioned by Karl Lagerfeld for the launch of Fendi’s first ready-to-wear collection in 1977. Following De Bascher’s original narrative arc, Chiuri’s version also portrays a young woman’s journey through a lonesome, decrepit Rome, but with a cinematic style that feels completely different. Where De Bascher’s film offers a dream-like view of reality, this short holds a darkened mirror to reality, enveloping us in a more dystopian view of the space she explores, filled with unsettling muses and feverish architecture.
As we are introduced to the figures hidden in a deserted building, we get a closer glimpse of the garments that make up the Cruise 2027 collection. Silhouettes are devoid of gendered expression, seen interchangeably on woman and man. Colours are kept to a minimum, forcing our eyes towards texture and material, held together through clean lines. Everything is fit to appropriate a certain uniform, with each piece built to be broken down and reassembled according to one’s needs.
Though colours are understated, patterns make significant appearances through a whole zoo of animal prints — snake, leopard, tiger — and plaid that inject the collection with sciura glamour. Furs roar with a loud intensity, lining long trench coats or fitted vests. Looks are paired with studded heels and bags that add edge to otherwise elevated styles. Notably, the signature Baguette Bag is reimagined with studs and black leather or animal print, becoming an extension of the garments they accessorise.
The collection treads a balance between uninhibited trashiness and elevated understatement, meeting somewhere in the middle to form Fendi’s latest identity under Chiuri. Aiming for high-quality processes and materials, Chiuri inserts her Italian identity into the brand, forming a cohesive vision of what a Fendi wardrobe should be. The pieces feel very in line with the trendscape of today, as we transition from minimalism to a slow and steady introduction of maximalism, with this collection representing the perfect meeting ground.
