LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2026: DAY 5

RORY WILLIAM DOCHERTY
review by DOMINIKA GŁOWACZ

all images RORY WILLIAM DOCHERTY provided by the brand

Rory William Docherty with “The Tides” collection debuted at this year’s London Fashion Week, and it was undoubtedly a successful one. Inspired by the rugged coastline of Aotearoa New Zealand, the collection captured underwater textures and tidal shifts through sea grass sketches, ink-drop prints, and a palette flowing from coral pinks to volcanic earth tones. Docherty’s strength lies in merging the poetic with the practical, and here that meant trans-seasonal pieces that felt both wearable and transportive. Signature elements like the 

Painter’s Shirt and origami sleeves were reworked into denim, silk, and leather, while collaborations with The Lyttleton Hat Company and Grinter Glass added striking handcrafted details. The result was a cohesive, fluid vision, clothing that balanced technical precision with artistic storytelling, and a collection that felt as timeless as the tides themselves.

SUSAN FANG
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images SUSAN FANG via vogue.com

Susan Fang once again pushed her work into new dimensions — both digital and handmade. Inspired by a comic set 3,000 years from now, the designer collaborated with her husband Orelio on 3D-printed “coral flow” pieces and bags shaped by virtual wind before being frozen into form. These showpieces framed a collection grounded in Fang’s tactile codes: air-flower ruffles, pastel feathers beneath sheer overlays, and crystal-pixel florals that translated digital code into embellishment. Bridal notes crept in via cascading minidresses and veils. Romantic yet experimental, Fang’s universe fused technology, craft, and fantasy into a sensory vision of beauty and chaos.

CHARLIE CONSTANTINOU
review by DOMINIKA GŁOWACZ

all images CHARLIE CONSTANTINOU provided by the brand

The Charlie Constantinou show unfolded like a journey through color, starting with softer, more toned-down shades and gradually building towards vibrant hues like blue and purple. Despite this evolution, the collection remained cohesive, with models closing the show in color groups that beautifully reinforced the overall aesthetic.

The garments were highly technical yet grounded in natural fabrics like linen and cotton, making them not only innovative but also very wearable. The designs offered endless styling possibilities, showcasing Constantinou’s ability to merge practicality with creativity. Each piece felt meticulously constructed, with a strong emphasis on geometry and precision. What truly caught the eye, however, were the striking silver details: oversized zippers placed on pants and hoods, as well as large, functional bags coated in silver paint with a unique bubble texture. These details elevated the collection, giving it a futuristic edge.

This season also featured a collaboration with Demon Footwear. The partnership produced modular, technical shoes with bold geometric silhouettes that complemented the clothing perfectly, tying the looks together from head to toe. At its core, this collection was a study in adaptation and transformation, garments that evolved through both form and function, while staying true to a distinctive and forward-thinking aesthetic.

CONNER IVES
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images CONNER IVES via vogue.com

Conner Ives closed London Fashion Week on a high, turning the Saatchi Yates gallery into a neon-drenched party. Opening with Cortisa Star in a sherbet rugby top and upcycled silk skirt, the lineup pulsed with bias-cut gowns, chainmail hooded dresses, and mother-of-pearl paillettes, balanced by ingenious reworkings like leather sequins laser-cut from discarded jackets. Casting was led by trans and gender-nonconforming models, affirming Ives’s ongoing commitment to representation beyond slogans. The mood was joyously pop-driven but also deeply protective and purposeful. In Ives’s words: “The only way out is through.” His clothes made that feel true.

ASHISH
review by DOMINIKA GŁOWACZ

all images ASHISH via vogue.com

This season, Ashish’s show was truly one of a kind! It wasn’t just a fashion show; it was a full-blown spectacle. The entire presentation felt like a mesmerising dance performance, and the way the clothing interacted with the movement only enhanced the pieces. Everything was so hypnotic that you couldn’t take your eyes off the floor and the dancers. I found myself instinctively vibing with them, bouncing in my seat, fully immersed in the show!

Ashish Gupta collaborated closely with performance artist Linder Sterling, and it was clear that they cast professional dancers with diverse styles. Some had a contemporary feel, others danced in high heels with a more feminine flair, and the mix was absolutely show-stopping. Every movement was packed with emotion, and it genuinely felt like each dancer was performing the role of a lifetime.

The collection itself was dazzling, full of sequins, yet it also featured flowing garments that moved perfectly in sync with the dancers. It was a wardrobe straight out of your wildest party dreams! The show was titled “Fresh Hell,” which is ironically the funniest “hell” I’ve ever seen or imagined. The experience didn’t feel hellish at all; it felt more like a joyous, heavenly party among the clouds. Watching it was so much fun that I found myself wishing I could step onto the dance floor and lose myself in the music and movement with them!

BURBERRY
review by ANANO SHALAMBERIDZE

all images BURBERRY provided by the brand

The most anticipated show of London Fashion Week, Burberry Spring/Summer 2026 showcase was once again a celebration of Britishness, this time through the lens of music. 

Teased by the recent campaign staged on simulated festival grounds with icons like Alexa Chung and the Gallagher family, Daniel Lee’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection paid tribute to the UK’s sonic culture, celebrating the enduring spirit of Mods, Rockers and Hippies. “Musicians have always been pioneers, fearless in the way they dress and sound. A legacy you’ll see in the looks, cast and styling,” Lee said.

Fringe and leather ruled the runway, echoing decades past, while guests savored the last taste of summertime beneath a sky-blue tent on Kensington’s Perks Field, gravel and mud underfoot as if stepping straight into Glastonbury. Accessories like the Baez sandal nodded to music legends, while the soundtrack, sourced by longtime collaborator Benji B from the archives of Black Sabbath, sealed the mood. Looks drew as much from festivalgoers as from performers, with sequined mini dresses, arm cuffs, lace-up boots, and the quintessential British festival piece, a trench or raincoat slung over the shoulders. Casting felt fresh and youthful, as if street-cast from festival grounds. The palette was bold, with beige, brown and indigo punctuated by intense colour. And yes, dresses over trousers and army jackets are back, according to Daniel Lee.