MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 2
PRONOUNCE
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of PRONOUNCE
Fashion has spent the past few seasons declaring that tailoring is back. Pronounce, however, seemed less interested in solely its return, and instead focused on questioning what that return should actually look like today.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou stripped formal dressing of much of its rigidity. Blazers were worn with shorts, ties hung loosely against open shirts, while softly draped wraps around trousers and fluid layers replaced the sharp precision often associated with suiting. To be clear, this wasn’t a rejection of tailoring, but a more instinctive way of wearing it. Rather than relying on exaggerated silhouettes or conceptual styling, Pronounce found confidence in subtle shifts of proportion, relaxed layering and a toned down colour palette punctuated by vibrant blues, reds and chartreuse.
Ten years after launching the label, Li and Zhou appear increasingly comfortable letting the clothes speak for themselves. They’ve become a living proof that sometimes the simplest of gestures might just be the most refreshing things we see.
DOLCE & GABBANA
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of DOLCE & GABBANA
There are few brands capable of making a summer holiday look quite as glamorous as Dolce & Gabbana. For Spring/Summer 2027, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana returned to familiar territory with Vacanze Siciliane, proving that nobody does la dolce vita quite like Dolce & Gabbana.
The show opened with relaxed silhouettes and effortless holiday dressing. Models wandered through a Sicilian-inspired landscape in swimwear, open robes, lightweight tailoring, and crochet knitwear. Did it feel slightly theatrical? Yes! Did we all still enjoy it? Yes! The actual runway show presented an array of oversized jackets, knitted shorts, retro-patterned T-shirts, and soft tailoring that captured the spirit of a bygone Mediterranean getaway.
Particularly enjoyable part of the collection was its embrace of decoration that has been there for the past seasons every time more daring than before. Postcard prints, lemon motifs, colourful embellishments, and sparkling stones appeared throughout, often in unexpected combinations. The standout look featured a T-shirt printed with a religious mosaic image of Christ, its surface reproducing the texture and depth of Sicilian church mosaics. It felt quintessentially Dolce & Gabbana: devotional, dramatic, and deeply rooted in the visual culture of Southern Italy. Another one was definitely a denim set elevated through vibrant embellishment. Belts glistened with jewel-like buckles and sequins brought a sense of occasion even to the most relaxed looks.
The collection concluded in an unexpected all-white finale. It was a chic and surprisingly restrained ending to a collection otherwise built on colour, texture, and embellishment. More than anything, Vacanze Siciliane felt like an invitation to Sicily – to slow down, dress up, and embrace the romance of summer. Get your bags ready, I guess!
PAUL SMITH
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of PAUL SMITH
Paul Smith has never treated his archive as something to be preserved behind glass. Instead, it feels more like a wardrobe built over decades, with favourite pieces returning whenever the moment feels right.
For Spring/Summer 2027, familiar silhouettes resurfaced without feeling archival. Relaxed tailoring in soft shades of stone, sand, sage and navy formed the backbone of the collection, cut in lightweight fabrics that gave even the sharpest suits an effortless feel. Shirts were left open, knitwear casually layered, while ties, scarves and washed leather bags made the styling feel romantically instinctive — almost as if you were running late for your date.
Weathered suede jackets, vintage tie prints and souvenir-like pins gave the impression of a wardrobe that had been built slowly over time, each piece picked up somewhere, worn often and kept for a reason. Even the whimsical hats, recalling folded newspaper hats from childhood holidays, reinforced that sense of personal history.
Paul Smith once again demonstrated that the best wardrobes aren’t built in one season. They’re accumulated over a lifetime, growing richer with every memory attached to them.
MSGM
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of MSGM
There is perhaps no more complicated source of inspiration today than America. Once shorthand for optimism and possibility, it has become equally associated with political division and cultural uncertainty. Massimo Giorgetti asked what remains worth holding onto.
Presented at Milan’s Ordet gallery, MSGM’s latest collection answered that question through a wardrobe built on familiar American archetypes. Collegiate rugby shirts, striped button-downs, roomy tailoring and Western references were all present, but stripped of nostalgia. Optimism has always been one of MSGM’s defining qualities, and Giorgetti treated these inspirations as cultural fragments, reshuffled into something lighter and more hopeful.
It arrived through bright colour combinations, washed denim, oversized leather jackets, airy shirting and relaxed silhouettes that felt made for movement. The unisex approach only reinforced a sense of openness, with every look designed to exist beyond traditional boundaries.
Accompanied by an immersive film installation by Los Angeles artist P. Staff, the collection acknowledged the unease of the present without allowing it to dictate the mood. Giorgetti offered a reminder that fashion can still choose curiosity over cynicism.