MILAN FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 1

SANTONI
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of SANTONI

Spring/Summer 2027 at Santoni was a showcase of range. While the Italian house remains best known for its impeccably crafted footwear, the presentation made a convincing case for its growing universe of leather goods, accessories, and lifestyle pieces.

Craftsmanship remained the common thread throughout, and visitors were invited to observe artisans at work, from Santoni’s signature Velatura hand-colouring technique to the intricate stitching and construction behind its footwear.  Particularly striking were the Intrecci pieces, a handwoven leather technique that appeared across bags, caps, and footwear, showcasing the level of craftsmanship that remains at the heart of the house.

Elsewhere, floral silk scarves, soft gradients, and a noticeably more feminine sensibility softened the presentation. Alongside the house’s iconic orange-soled footwear were suede loafers so supple they almost resembled velvet, as well as backpacks, sneakers, and more casual offerings that highlighted Santoni’s continued expansion beyond formal footwear.

At a time when many brands focus on a single hero product, Santoni wants us to know that craftsmanship can take many forms.

MARTIN QUAD
review by MAREK BARTEK

Martin Quad’s Spring 2027 collection was built around deconstructed tailoring, and from the very first look, there was little ambiguity about that. Traditional menswear codes were pulled apart and reassembled into something stranger, whether through asymmetrical cuts, unexpected folds, or garments that appeared to have been turned upside down entirely.

The opening looks felt surprisingly wintery for a spring collection. Shades of grey dominated, followed by a stark black-and-white palette that reinforced the collection’s slightly gothic mood. Tailoring remained the foundation throughout, with houndstooth patterns, high-waisted trousers, elongated silhouettes, and sharp outerwear creating a wardrobe that somehow felt conservative and fashion-conscious at once.

The collection’s strongest moments came when Quad pushed construction furthest. One look transformed a pair of trousers into a sculptural garment that sat somewhere between an overall, a skirt, and a tailored experiment. Waistbands appeared where they shouldn’t, proportions shifted unexpectedly, and familiar pieces took on entirely new forms. Elsewhere, twists and draping created silhouettes that felt deliberately off-kilter without becoming theatrical.

Yet while the ideas were compelling, the execution occasionally struggled to match them. Deconstruction relies heavily on precision, and some of the more ambitious looks felt stronger in concept than in their final realisation.

Still, there was plenty to admire. A double-sided feather earring added a touch of drama, leather appeared towards the end as an unexpected addition, and a gold sequinned dress brought welcome contrast to the predominantly muted palette. 

RALPH LAUREN
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of RALPH LAUREN

For Spring 2027, Ralph Lauren presented both Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren, offering two distinct perspectives on the American man. One was worldly and refined, the other playful and slightly eccentric, but both were unmistakably Ralph.

Purple Label opened the show with the kind of luxurious effortlessness we’ve come to love about Ralph Lauren. Neutral tailoring, leather outerwear, loosely draped scarves, sport jackets and bathrobe-like coats carried the air of a well-travelled man moving between continents. Sure, he might be spending his summers on the Italian coast (most likely on a boat) but he remains distinctly American. A leather jacket thrown over a suit, retro driving goggles, and a mechanic-inspired overall embroidered with Ralph Lauren on the back gave the collection a rugged edge without a need of sacrificing elegance.

The mood shifted once Polo Ralph Lauren entered the picture. Suddenly, checks, patchwork, madras fabrics, and colourful styling took us out of the previous, demure Italian fantasy. Denim jackets appeared pieced together from different washes, knitwear looked lovingly repaired and rebuilt, and heritage collegiate staples gained new character through hand-crafted details and a deliberate sense of irregularity.

What made the collection particularly enjoyable was its styling. Scarves replaced bow ties in a very romantic Edwardian fashion, knits were tied around waists, colourful socks peeked out from delicate loafers, and some models carried not one but two bags. At times it felt slightly dishevelled, but never careless.

Ralph Lauren has spent decades building a universe around the American dream. This season served as a reminder that he remains particularly good at evolving it without ever losing sight of what made it compelling in the first place.

MISSONI
review by MAREK BARTEK

all images courtesy of MISSONI

Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2027 presentation served as a reminder that few houses understand knitwear quite like the Italian brand. While the collection featured many of the signatures one would expect, it most certainly didn’t feel repetitive.

The focus remained firmly on knit construction, with patterns that created a batik-like illusion despite being entirely knitted rather than printed. The effect brought depth and movement to everything from cardigans and shorts to flowing dresses and swimwear. Colour played an equally important role. Bright, sun-soaked hues sat alongside softer pastel tones, creating a wardrobe that felt perfectly suited to long summer days.

Particularly striking was the collection’s sense of lightness. Even the more elaborate pieces, including sequinned swimwear and fitted knitted dresses, retained an effortless quality. Exploring the collection further, the palette deepened into darker shades, introducing a more evening-oriented mood through elongated silhouettes and shimmering textures.

BIKKEMBERGS
review by MAREK BARTEK

Bikkembergs’ Spring/Summer 2027 collection felt like a brand looking both backwards and forwards at the same time. As the house continues its revival, the collection revisited key elements from its archive while reintroducing them to a new audience through a more contemporary lens.

Japanese influences ran throughout, inspired by the creative director’s travels. A tailored jacket borrowed from the language of the kimono and graphic elements, including the Bikkembergs logo rendered in Japanese, brought a fresh perspective to the collection’s sporty foundations. Elsewhere, archival references played an important role. A leather jacket was revived directly from the brand’s archives, while a print originally developed for Spring/Summer 1986 returned in a new context.

Sport remained central to the brand’s identity, particularly through a series of lifestyle-focused football-inspired pieces and retro sneakers presented in playful colour combinations. Alongside relaxed tailoring, denim, and technical fabrics, they offered a glimpse into what a modern Bikkembergs wardrobe could look like.

More than anything, the collection suggested a brand becoming increasingly comfortable balancing nostalgia with reinvention. Whether long-time fans or newcomers buy into that vision remains to be seen, but the foundations are certainly there.