NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 5
MAGDA BUTRYM
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of MAGDA BUTRYM
Magda Butrym's collection felt like a natural evolution, softening the house's signature sensuality without losing its identity. Inspired by Polish artist Natalia LL and memories of the designer's grandmother, the collection balanced romance through sheer layers, delicate lace and fluid slips contrasted against glossy leather, structured tailoring and Butrym's unmistakable cinched silhouettes.
What impressed most was how wearable this softer direction felt. The translucent trench coats layered over nude dresses, leather jackets thrown across fragile lace slips and understated floral prints brought an ease that made the collection feel immediately desirable. Even the recurring apron-inspired silhouettes, which could have veered into nostalgia, instead felt modern through clever styling and proportion.
There were moments where the collection lingered a little too long in its dreamy palette, but they were outweighed by genuinely memorable looks. The feather-trimmed tailoring, sculptural leather pieces and lingerie-inspired dresses offered enough contrast to keep the story moving, while the final sequence of airy white looks delivered one of the most beautiful endings of the week. Butrym demonstrated confidence in refinement, proving that softness can be every bit as powerful as drama. It was romantic without becoming overly sentimental, and easily one of the week's most cohesive and desirable collections.
CAMPILLO
review by JOYCE ONUORAH
all images courtesy of CAMPILLO
Campillo’s collection this season gave familiar shapes a looser, more contemporary feel. Traditional charro tailoring was cropped, elongated and shifted into new proportions. Shirts hung off the shoulder, jackets exposed unexpected layers, and fabric folded around the body rather than sitting neatly in place.
The idea came through in In Medias Res, a collection about memory and the things that change as they’re remembered. His Mexican references remained present, as they always do but not always in the most literal sense. Silhouettes were slightly undone, layers left exposed, a shape were formed naturally into what they were supposed to be. Horsehair remained central, appearing across shirts, skirts and jackets alongside silk and crepe. Silver jewelry paired well juxtaposed to the natural materials. The mix gave the clothes a sense of permanence and movement all at the same time. The collection felt strongest in those small shifts. Campillo embarked on giving the charro suit a new life.
BRANDON MAXWELL
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of BRANDON MAXWELL
Compared to last his Spring/Summer, which felt more expressive and emotionally charged, this collection of Brandon Maxwell was noticeably quieter, more disciplined and almost meditative. Maxwell revisited the foundations of his brand, refining familiar ideas through impeccable tailoring and thoughtful construction.
The collection revolved around clean staples: sharp coats, fluid trousers, leather separates and softly draped dresses, all rendered in a palette of black, white, cream, grey and khaki, punctuated only occasionally by vivid red and chartreuse. It was refreshingly free of unnecessary embellishment, allowing proportion, cut and fabrication to do the talking. Small details, from integrated scarves to sculptural pleats and cleverly engineered tailoring, revealed the craftsmanship behind garments that at first appeared deceptively simple.
While some may have wished for a little more excitement, the collection's confidence lay precisely in its understatement. Every look felt considered, wearable and beautifully finished, proving that refinement can be just as compelling. It may not have delivered the dramatic moments of previous seasons, but it offered a confident wardrobe built on longevity and clothes designed to be lived in.
GRACE LING
review by MAREK BARTEK
all images courtesy of GRACE LING
Grace Ling continues to carve out a distinctive space in New York, proving that technical precision and theatricality don't have to exist at opposite ends of the spectrum. This season felt like her most accomplished yet, balancing sculptural experimentation with a noticeably more refined and wearable wardrobe.
Sharp tailoring formed the backbone of the collection, from beautifully cut jackets and elongated suiting to fluid separates that demonstrated a growing confidence beyond the red carpet. Ling's signature draped gowns remained a highlight, rendered in rich shades of black, ivory and oxblood, while liquid fabrics wrapped elegantly around the body with an almost architectural precision. Her sculptural metallic elements, which have become a house signature, punctuated the collection without overwhelming it, adding moments of fantasy that felt earned rather than gimmicky.
The cinematic set, rain-soaked atmosphere and umbrella-carrying models created an almost gothic mood that elevated every look without distracting from the clothes themselves. While Grace Ling's aesthetic remains unapologetically bold, it no longer feels defined by statement pieces alone. The tailoring has matured, the construction is increasingly sophisticated and the collection demonstrated that the brand is evolving into something with lasting substance alongside its unmistakable visual identity.