IN CONVERSATION WITH DANIELA ANDRIER
interview by ANOUK WOUDT
After nearly three decades in the perfume industry, German-born Daniela Andrier has created over 140 perfumes, solidifying her presence as one of the world’s top perfumiers. With scents that have transgressed into the worlds of Dries Van Noten, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Marni, Prada, and countless others, she returns to Miu Miu after their first collaboration in 2015 to create her latest scent: Fleur de Lait. With notes of mango, coconut milk, and osmanthus, this perfume highlights her raw olfactory style, developing simple notes into complex layers.
images courtesy of MIU MIU BEAUTY
Since creating Miu Miu’s first house scent, you’ve collaborated with the brand on multiple different frangrances. How does it feel to return and create Fleur de Lait together?
It feels natural. Over time, we’ve built a shared language and understanding of what defines Miu Miu olfactory identity, something lively yet refined. Returning to that universe allowed me to explore a new facet of it, with a slightly more textured and comforting tone.
What makes this fragrance particularly suited to the world of Miu Miu?
Miu Miu universe is playful, modern, and full of contrasts. Fleur de Lait reflects that through the meeting of bright fruity notes and a creamy accord. The composition is spontaneous but structured, fresh yet warm, which mirrors the brand’s unique combination of youthfulness and sophistication.
Fleur de Lait mixes notes of mango, coconut milk, and osmanthus. What inspired this unique scent profile?
I was inspired by the idea of translating light through texture. The mango brings juiciness and brightness, coconut milk adds an enveloping smoothness, and osmanthus connects them with a subtle floral-fruity nuance. It’s about creating harmony rather than highligting one note over another.
When would you say is the perfect occasion to wear Fleur de Lait?
It’s meant to be versatile. The composition feels comfortable and luminous, so it can be worn easily in any season. It adapts to the moment rather that defining it.
Scents are often closely linked to memory. Does Fleur de Lait connect to a particular memory or feeling for you?
It evokes a quiet sense of joy and familiarity. While not linked to a specific memory, it carries that comforting emotional tone that reminds us of simple, positive moments.
Having created over 140 perfumes, in what ways does Fleur de Lait stand out from your previous creations?
Fleur de Lait explores a new direction of gourmand, it focuses more on texture and contrast for a sensation that feels both new and familiar.
How do you know when a fragrance is “finished” and ready to share with the world?
When everything feels in place. When the transitions between note felt seamless. When the formula had reached its harmony.
You’ve said perfume should avoid clichés and embrace contrasts. What are some clichés in modern perfumery that you try to avoid?
A fragrance can be comforting without being heavy. The challenge lies in finding nuance and authenticity through balance and contrast. What I call cliché is a trite platitude repeated endlessly.
