RETHINKING CHAMPAGNE: TELMONT AND FIVE CHEFS CELEBRATE SUSTAINABLE GASTRONOMY
words NATALIE GAL
Founded in 1912, Maison Telmont is rethinking what champagne represents while preserving its traditions and the ideas we associate with it. Throughout history, champagne has become the epitome of luxury and celebration. Let’s face it: we always think of champagne when we think of graduations, marriages, and those milestone moments we place rightfully on a pedestal. The house, now led by Ludovic Du Plessis, is re-examining these concepts with a modern take.
We gathered for a special dinner at Bolenius, one of Amsterdam’s top establishments when it comes to refinement and elegance. The twist of the night was sustainability — how can we pair this iconic drink with dishes from Mother Nature, kept as close as possible to their original and earthy form? Five chefs who know this philosophy best came together: Luc Kusters of Bolenius, Bas van Kranen from Flore (one of our absolute favourites), Kees Meinderts from Mearkes, Jelle Wagenaar from Het Seminar, and Edwin Soumang from O N E. Each created a dish — a single bite, paired with Telmont Champagne. Every creation was entirely different, showcasing the personality and character of each chef as they introduced their dish.
From the ten dishes, personal favourites included the tartlet with turnip and fermented green apple, which burst in our mouths just like champagne, an energetic, playful start and the perfect ice-breaker from the Bolenius team. A beautiful highlight from Flore was their yellow beet futomaki with flowers, and herbs. Flore also presented a turbot dish, which for me was the standout dish of the entire evening. From O N E, the black garlic gnocchi with red cabbage, beet, and Tomasu soy was unlike anything we had ever tasted: its structure and texture were a true example of science in the kitchen. Het Seminar served such a complex plate that it took everyone’s palate a moment to understand all its components; puffed rutabaga, lovage vinaigrette, preserved figs, morel, onion, and chicken liver. And finally, Mearkes’ dessert — buckwheat crêpes with apple, cranberry, and hazelnut — was the perfect closing note.
A personal highlight was watching these chefs interact, laughing, exchanging tricks of the trade, and letting us in on their thought processes. It’s rare to see such brilliant minds gathered under one roof. To me, sustainable dining is about experiencing food together; there’s something beautiful about enjoying dishes that nourish our bodies while sharing the moment with people in an environment that feeds our souls. The night as a whole was food for thought, quite literally.
