VERSO CAPITANEO BRINGS THE KITCHEN TO THE TABLE

words MAREK BARTEK

At Verso Capitaneo, the idea of proximity is central — not just in location, steps from the Duomo, but in how the experience is structured. The kitchen is fully exposed, with guests seated at a counter that places them directly in front of the chefs. It brings a certain immediacy to the experience, drawing attention to the process itself, allowing the craftsmanship behind each dish to come into view.

Led by brothers Remo Capitaneo and Mario Capitaneo, the cooking balances technical precision with a willingness to push flavour combinations slightly off-centre. Italian foundations remain visible — pasta, seafood, game — but are consistently reworked through unexpected pairings, whether it’s finger lime cutting through king crab or richer dishes sharpened with acidity and smoke.  

What stands out is the rhythm between control and spontaneity. Dishes are finished in front of the guest, creating a sense of promptness, yet nothing feels improvised. The interaction between kitchen and dining room is fluid, almost conversational, reinforcing the sense that the experience is built collectively.

The format is ambitious, but it never feels overcomplicated or hard to follow. Verso sits somewhere between fine dining and something more direct — less distant, more engaging overall. Awarded two Michelin stars within a remarkably short time, it ultimately delivers on its promise: a restaurant that feels as much about experience as it does about cooking.